Bear Encounter

** Yesterday, in a trailjournal entry I said that I picked up the book, We Took to the Woods by Louis Richardson. This is wrong, her name is Louise Dickinson Rich. My apologies.

8-19-07. Sunday. By the fire alongside the Ammonoosic River, NH. Cordwell campsite...a first come, first served freebie. 24.3 miles today. 2 portages- 250 yds and 3.8 miles.

For breakfast this morning I had eggs, bacon, sausage, home fries, French toast, regular wheat toast and coffee all for under ten bucks. It was wonderful and just the nourishment I needed!

While I should not have, I took a zero yesterday because Todd and his staff at Northern Waters Canoe and Kayak, in Errol, NH, invited me to stay for their season end party. How could I say no? The guys were great and the evening’s menu consisted of Maine rock lobster, bbq ribs, corn on cob, bbq meatballs and blueberry pie. What a special treat!

We all hung out by the fire the night before after I only put in 10 miles due to a wrong turn on a 4 mile portage. The wrong turn cost me 6 hours. By the time I arrived at the dam and portaged around it I could only think of resupplying and a place to stay for the night. It was getting late and I got out to scout the rapids before taking the plunge. What I first observed where people camping along the river. Yes, I thought, so with no time wasted I went searching for the head honcho. He was Todd and once I introduced myself I learned that he knew of me. We shot the bull for several minutes and Todd welcomed me, invited me to hang out around the fire later and described where food, gear, ice cream and adult beverages could be found.

**I stopped typing so I could eat dinner- Mountain House chili mac. Once finished, the fire almost gone and no more firewood, I began preparing for bedtime.

As I was making sure the fire was under control I noticed eyes, two of them. So I stood up and shined the headlamp in that direction because maybe they weren't really there.

But they were and not 15 feet away, in some brush at the perimeter of this campsite and just 10 feet from my tent stood a bear! The bear was not fully grown and so immediately I scanned for another bear. None were to be found. Ol' scary bear did seem bigger than a cub, perhaps a year or two but I could not say precisely.

What am I going to do in this situation? No gun, no rocks, no knife except for a Swiss Army pocket knife. So I picked up my wooden paddle and banged it against the nearest tree. The bear was unmoved by this gesture. He seemed timid or curious, perhaps a wee bit scared but maybe I am just hoping so. I looked around and the only rocks were lining the firepit. They would have burned my hand severely had I had to pick one up. So I stepped towards the bear, partly out of curiosity but mainly to scare him off. This did not. He then stepped towards me and this afforded me a better look at his size. I was thinking jeez, what an inconvenient time to see the first bear of this paddle. I knew he could outrun, out climb, out swim and probably out paddle me. So loudly I said Leave! Again and even louder I shouted, Leave me alone! He was looking at my cook pot and then it occurred to me...the food. Was he just curious of my presence, was he hungry or not really and just wanted a ! Free dinner? I do not know. He turned and walked back into the woods.

I started using the courtesy woodpile I assembled for the next camper to stoke the fire. Then I went to hang a bear bag, which has been the first of this paddle. Making sure all smellable items were away I then began gathering more wood to keep the fire going.

While searching for wood, I decided that perhaps I might need a weapon. I fashioned a spear by duct taping a tent stake to the end of the paddle. Like this will help in a fight but at least it is something.

This year while hiking the Appalachian Trail I saw a bear in camp close to morning and was able to chase him off. In that case, daylight was an hour away. Now I have about eight hours.

While looking for wood I saw bear dung behind my tent along with urine and wondered had he been watching me eat dinner? There are strange noises coming from the direction of my food bag.

**Back again and it is going on 11pm. I'd love to be asleep now but how could I? Every noise might be that bear or another one or hell, a whole crew.

I've got my spear handy, logs that could be used like bats outside the tent, extra tent stakes handy, Swiss Army knife opened and within reaching distance and denatured alcohol and lighter ready to use in a pinch. This is probably all overkill but it all gives me some comfort.

It really seemed like the bear was curious. It never appeared to be on either the offensive or defensive. But the whole encounter spooked me like no other time a bear came into my view. I sure hope they go somewhere else. There is plenty of food out there for them so why would they want all the msg and preservatives in my rations?

Totally different subject but the 19 miles of the Androscoggin River I paddled today was really fun. The rapids by the camp were CL II+ and roaring. I put in this morning where I took out and picked the wet line, just left of center. Per Todd the wet line is the one where you are most likely to get wet. After watching folks kayak and canoe that set yesterday made me excited for some more white water.

It feels like I got a lesson by listening to all the guides talk about the rivers and their experiences. Most of the guides were veterans of North Waters.

There were a lot of folks there that had, like me, happened upon the place, fell in love with the paddling and befriended Todd and the gang. They come back year after year for the paddling and the fellowship. At night by the campfire, they would play music and it was really good. These folks have played together for years and compliment each other’s style effectively. They even sang tunes, “Back to the Bar Room” and “Sing Me Back Home,” by Merle Haggard!

If you would like to take a lesson, use their guide services or camp you should definitely give them a call. Once I track down the number and address I will note in an entry.

Tomorrow, I will hopefully wrap up the Ammonoosic River and make it some way up the Connecticut River for another 20+ mile day. Leaving the balance of the Connecticut River to N. Stratford, NH where I will try to find ride back to Rangeley, ME. From there its NOBO and mostly downstream to Ft. Kent, ME, baby.
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject