Out of the Smokies

Update...highlights from Fontana Dam to Hot Springs, NC:

Day 1: From Fontana Dam, NC I hiked 5.9 miles to The Birches Campground. I was terribly needing a nap. I took one but awoke three hours later. Since dinner time was only minutes away I decided that here would be tonight's resting place. With great sleeps I began a very, very cold welcoming morning in the Smokies. Swiftly moving up the trail I really could feel that yes, I had arrived one more time to this great place. No snow, sunny skies and beautifully maintained trails I took it all in. If you have hiked here you know what I mean and if you have not, you should.

Up Shuckstack mountain was a tough climb but worth it and my muscles really responded to the challenge of a 2000 +ft climb. Lunch at Mollies Ridge Shelter. Cold but worth the stop. Tonight I stayed at Spence Field Shelter. My first in the Smokies. I had hoped my last due to non sleep created by snorers. We had a fire, it kept the shelter warm and despite the nights chill I slept comfortably.

Day 2: Spence Shelter to Double Springs Gap Shelter. To get things started off this chilly morning I got to climb ol' Rocky Top. Great views, great trail and a new song to sing. Up Siler's Bald the days hike seemed like a steady climb with an occasional reprieve. This night, determined to get sleep, announced my tenting to the crew in the shelter. It seemed that the shelter might fill that night making my tenting nearby "official".

The snow began shortly after I pitched the tent. Time to fix dinner and the snow just seemed nice as it fell. By the time I had eaten and sort of cleaned the nights crockery it was time for bed. I bid my farewells and slipped out for a warms night sleep. It was warm in there that night. I never felt uncomfortable. Of course, you always kind of sweat your bag getting wet in the night. Great night's sleep.

Day 3: Awoke to cold, chilly winds making it through my tent. Feet were starting to get cold and frost was noticeable all over the underneath of my rainfly. I could see that a snow drift had covered up a part of both rain flaps. Peering out from my tent at the snow that was falling and the snow that had been left building on the ground was as surprising as exhilarating. This is winter camping, eh? 5500' elev., temps in upper teens and you're hiking along a ridgeline with snow and wind blowing in your face--it was fun. Hiked into Newfound Gap and hitched into Gatlinburg with Skeeter Feeder a 2005 alum. Gatlinburg was Gatlinburg. More to follow...

Today (April 14), I'm officially out of the Smokies. We stayed on Mt. Cammerer. A trail .06 miles off the AT lead me up a ridge line, through a canopy of rhodies, scrambling up rocks to the top. At the top a tall simple but timely structure stood. The firetower had an observation deck that looked inviting. But was it open, could I get in to take a 360 degree look out over what I had just hiked and what lay ahead? I scrambled up some rocks and reached the firetower. Up the stairs and YES the door is opened. An octagon shaped observation tower made home to several hikers that night. It was a nice and cool night with a bright red sunset. We went to sleep warmer than we had the previous weeks sleeps.

It must have been around midnight when the wind started up. It started and did not let up until morning. We must have received a bit of rain, but the wind picked up at a ferocious pace through the night. Finally, a sleepless night due to something other than the horrible, unpaced, erratic snores of The Smokies shelters. A beautiful sunset and windy morning awaited the shelter gang. A slow start, but out by 10am got us to Standing Bear Farm hostel before 1pm.

The day before...April 10, 2007. Leaving the warmth of Tri Corner Knob shelter was tough today despite warmer than temperatures of late. A shorter hike was in store for today so an early start was not urgent. And since this days hike was so breathtaking up Mt Guyot down and back up to Deer Creek Gap I sure loved the time to stop. There was still snow on the ground and the hiking cold. I had to keep moving to stay warm. However, the sun would come out, I'd be hiking uphill and then overheating would begin. It was a tough battle maintaining body temp. Never wanting to get too wet with sweat, given the temperatures and wind, I would slow during climbs and speed down hill, constantly removing and replacing hats, gloves, rain pants and rain jacket. But what a beautiful stretch and then I got off on the Mt Cammerer side trail up to the fire tower. A nice finishing stretch that featured a slow uphill approach along a ridgeline. The views in all directions, seeing everything, forever, reminded me how fortunate I am for the experiences discovered on THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL.

More updates soon -- I just sent Rob a disk full of photos, so hopefully, I'll have some online for you really soon.

Thanks again to Leki. Your poles are keeping me alive and hiking!

Granite Gear. I cannot say enough about how well your Nimbus Ozone has worked for me here on the AT and on the PCT.

Chef Paul, of Etowah Outfitters/ Gear, again, you are topping the list of items in my pack. Keep up the great work!