Totally Different Subject

Jason's Status

2008-11-15T17:41:00.002-05:00

Editor's note: I just recently found out about Jason's accident. For those of you that don't know, Jason (TDS) was in a bad car accident on 10/27, and is fighting hard to get better.

Hungus (AT 2007) has been posting a lot of updates at Whiteblaze.net. Here's a link to the forum thread with all the updates:

http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42673

Keep Jason and his family in your prayers.

-rg

SPAM/VIRUS

2008-05-07T14:06:00.002-04:00

Please do not click on the Comments for the latest picture post from PICS BUFFALO RIVER, AR. Some jerkoff put a virus there and like an idiot I approved the comment.

Again, if you click on COMMENTS and select the PLEASE SEE HERE, your pc might be at risk.

I will try to eliminate this comment but am not so sure how.

Thanks, Jason Bivin

Buffalo River, AR pics

2008-04-30T16:19:00.003-04:00

Buffalo River, Arkansas weekender

2008-04-30T15:47:00.003-04:00

Greetings Sports Fans! I'm backkkkkkkkkk.

The Buffalo River in Arkansas runs 135 miles, West to East and winds up dumping into the White River.

This weekend, my gal Kat-tostrophe, OKIE and Clint headed out for a 2-day adventure on the blue CL I-II Buffalo river with no expectations except to have a great time in the good ol outdoors. And that, my friends, we did!

No Bell Yellowstone Solo canoe this time. Kat and I shared an Old Town Discover, I believe. It was a rental and did the trick. We had her loaded down with gear, food and of course beer.

Kat and I drove from Tulsa, OK to a campground on the West end of the river- Steel Creek campground, near the convergence of Highways 74 and 43. We arrived around midnight and got a chance to shake the hell out of Okies tent. He and Clint woke up, we caught up over some beers and watched an amazing show of stars. The stars were out in groves. It was a nice night and it remained clear for stargazing. The campground was full with people dreaming of tomorrows canoe trip.

I picked up a newly designed MSR Hubba Hubba and we have used it on several occasions and I still love it.

The guy who owned the canoe rental place tried to talk us out of going given the high water levels and "scary CL IV's". He prodded for our level of experience and seemed to be satisfied with the 1000+ miles I have paddled and the fact that I guided canoe trips up in Minnesota's Boundary Waters. We loaded the canoes and set off on an adventure of a weekend.

By the way, there were plenty of CL II sets and a couple CL II-III's that made life interesting. Many of the folks we passed were off to the side bailing water or rolling their canoes, ridding them of that nasty water that fills your canoe once you get all caddywhampus and dump. We did not, however, ever dump or take on more than 10-20 gallons of water.

The water was a chalky greyish blue. It was clear and reminded me of the color of the lakes above 12,000 feet in California's High Sierras. It was beautiful and I have never paddled in anything so beautiful. I wouldn't drink the water, without purification like I would in Northern Maine or Northern Minnesota but it was beautiful and COLD nonetheless.

By the way, the Buffalo River is one of the fewest undammed rivers left in the lower 48 for its length. So its' water level is tied to the rainfall, or lack thereof.

The river was engorged by steep rock cliffs that must have exceeded 500 feet. They were tall and you strained your neck looking towards their tops hoping to catch glimpses of mountain goats. We never saw them. But a beaver did watch and swim around our campsite Saturday night. I told Kat we would see a beaver before the weekend was over.

We camped Saturday about halfway of our 20 mile itinerary, just past Kyles Landing. The campsite was primo and we found great tenting areas and had a wonderfully red sunset shining on the steep rock face that was opposite us. What a great nights sleep! For dinner we enjoyed steak- both filets and strips, with baked potatoes, beans and beer and chips and trail mix and beer. It was just what we needed after drinking beers all day. We finished the night out with a great, warm campfire and shared stories and generally enjoyed each others company.

The next morning we hit the water late, like around noon and spent the afternoon finishing up the paddle. Okie and Clint nearly lost it in one of those CL II-III's but kept it going enough until they could reach the banks of the river. Okie borrowed my cooking pot to bail out the water in his canoe. Those were fun pictures to take.

One of the spectacular features of this river are the plentiful, leveled and layered waterfalls that eventually dumped into the river. We stopped at many of them. We wished we could have stopped at all of them.

All in all, it was a great feeling to get back on the water. Even better to be on water that moves and has some choppiness to it. I am definitely going back to finish the entire river. In fact, Kat and I will do a 4-day weekend there around May 15-19. This means that I wont make AT Trail Days but will be there in Spirit.

Many of my friends are out on the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trails. Best of luck to all of them!

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject,
Jason Bivin

Follow up Questions to Canoeing.com

2008-01-12T19:27:00.000-05:00

Greetings,

I hope that everyone is enjoying 2008! The year of 2007 was one of my best. Gosh, I got to spend 8 months hiking and canoeing. Folks, it doesn't get much better than that.

Charlie Mahler of Canoeing.com and Canoeing.com, as Rob mentioned earlier, has taken an interest in my 2007 hiking/ canoeing adventure. In addition to the story they wrote I recently took the time to answer several questions for them. My responses resulted in another set of follow-up questions that I will answer shortly. Once Canoeing.com posts to their website I will provide a heads up. However, you should not wait for my story to check them out! The following responses are a sampling of what you will soon be able to read at Canoeing.com:

1. Canoeing.com: What prompted this epic journey of yours?

Jason "TDS" Bivin: Charlie, Thank you for taking an interest in my story and the time to ask these questions. I was attempting a thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail and while at The Sauffley’s, a hostel, I read about the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. This water trail was officially completed in the Spring of 2006, the same time I was hiking the PCT. About this time a kid from Wisconsin was hiking around us and we spent some time talking about paddling. These talks got me thinking seriously about a future thru-paddle of the NFCT. It was Spring time in Portland, OR, some friends were starting AT, CDT and PCT thru- hikes, I was miserable with my job and a long term relationship I was in was ending. So I needed a change. After some consideration I began a preliminary plan to do both the AT and NFCT in one season, hoping to be the first to complete both. I had to do it or I would have been crazy. I announced my decision and began planning. Once I sat at the rock atop Springer Mountain, GA, the Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail, I never thought I would fail. It was on!

2. Canoeing.com: Now that it's completed, what do you think will be the enduring impact of it for you?

Jason "TDS" Bivin: Well, Charlie, first I would say that it is not yet completed. Not totally 100% completed. I was not able to paddle some 160 miles of the 740 mile Northern Forest Canoe Trail. I did complete the 2174 mile Appalachian Trail but there is still some work to complete. My plan is to wrap up the NFCT miles next Spring. I did set out to be the First to thru- paddle the NFCT and thru-hike the AT in one season. I fell short of this accomplishment due to low water conditions on much of the NFCT and time but still accomplished a great deal personally and 2700+ hiking and canoeing miles in eight and a half months.

What will endure time will be the lessons I learned along the paddle, the experiences and the people. Some pretty amazing things take place in the wilderness and I had the privilege of seeing some of them this year. At a campsite in New Hampshire a black bear watched me eat dinner from just several feet of where I sat by campfire, while paddling down the Allegash River a bald eagle snatched a meal from the water just in front of my canoe, bull moose enjoying breakfast close enough that it might be considered we had breakfast together. What I learned about long distance paddling was brand new. I experienced white water river paddling, big open lake paddling and bog paddling for the first time along the NFCT in 2007. No matter where I landed, there were always great people in close proximity. Many folks helped along the trail, many friends and family helped from abroad. All of these people make the experience both possible and memorable.

...Best of luck in 2008 and THANK YOU to everyone that helped make my 2007 AT/NFCT experience premium!

Regards and Happy Trails,
Jason "Totally Different Subject" Bivin

End of the Trail

2007-12-14T16:09:00.000-05:00

TDS is in decompress mode, getting used to walking on concrete and sleeping in a bed.

Stan Bivin shared the photos of the tail end of the hike. It's interesting that it looks like TDS is cross-country skiing!
-rg

December 3, 2007 - FINISHED!

2007-12-03T16:37:00.000-05:00

Just got word from TDS - HE HAS COMPLETED HIS THRU HIKE!!!

He'll be posting more info soon -- I'd like to be the first to wish Jason CONGRATULATIONS!

I think it's fair to say that TDS has hiked/canoed more than just about anyone on the planet in the past 8 months! Quite an accomplishment...

-rg

Canoeing.com Story

2007-11-29T14:12:00.000-05:00

...just learned there was a note about TDS at Canoeing.com a few weeks ago!

Here's a link: http://www.canoeing.com/news/?p=45

Also, be sure to check out the main site at http://www.canoeing.com/ -- it's a great, with just about everything you'd need to know about anything relating to canoeing! COOL!

-rg

November 26, 2007

2007-11-26T12:46:00.000-05:00

Greetings Sportsfans!

I am still heading South towards Deleware Water Gap. Some 110 miles stand between here and finishing my 2007 AT Thru Hike.

The weather has been cold and I am adjusting to Winter hiking. It has not been easy! Now, it just stays cold.

All of Vermont was wet and cold. Mass and Conneticut were beautiful and with much of the leaves on the ground made for some great views.

I am to Bear Mountain Bridge, NY and am zeroing today in light of the foul rainy humid weather. Tomorrow and the following several days I will be slacking big miles to Vernon, NJ where I hope to hike the remaining 60 miles with my Dad.

[ed note - some posts from earlier sections will be coming soon!]

I met Maria McCabe in Salisbury, CT. She was a "feisty brod" and we had a delightful time visiting. She loves hikers and I would highly recommend stopping by on your hike, if not to stay, just to meet her. You will be enriched.

Friends Hungus and Tribes met me in North Adams and we hiked to Dalton, MA together. We had a blast despite the cold, cold below 20 nights. Hungus thru-hiked this year and we hiked together from Franklin, NC to Shenandoah, VA before he pullled ahead. Both are from Jersey and I was excited to have some company after many days of not seeing a sole.

While in Dalton, MA we stayed at the Shamrock Hotel. This is the BEST place to stay in Dalton, MA. You are right next to a bar, liquor store and convenient stores. They are very friendly and love hikers there. Check them out.

I added some clothes to my arsenal and they have helped me stay warm.

Oatmeal, coffee and hot cocoa are big parts of my morning ritual. It generally takes two hours from the time I wake before I hit the trail. The hardest part is getting out of a warm bag.

Hoping for great weather.

Thanks for your comments! I love hearing from everyone. Note to dem Texas Franchise boys...yea, I saw the UT v OSU game (Dick Wizzard) and the outcome was par for the course. As a life long Oklahoma State Univ fan and student I have come to expect the worse and hope for the best.

Thanks for all the care packages you all have sent along the way! Each of them were exactly what the Doctor ordered.

Congrats to all NOBO's and SOBO's this year. You did it!

Jersey, here I come...!

Happy Holidays and Best of New Year.

Quick Update

2007-11-26T11:00:00.000-05:00

Just a brief update on the latest news - TDS is really cookin across "The Tri-State Area" (aka Connecticut, New York, New Jersey). He telephoned this morning from Bear Mountain New York, just a stone's throw from West Point.

There are some heavy rains today, so he'll likely take a zero day. TDS's dad Stan is in the area, and he's going to be finishing the trail with him. The next couple of days, TDS will slackpack across New York and the NY-NJ border. In case you're unfamiliar with the tern, "slackpacking" means giving your heavy overnight gear to someone with a car, who meets up with you at an agreed upon place. It makes for a much lighter pack, and increases the number of miles you do in a day.

TDS and his dad are going to jointly hike the last 60 or so miles together. Pretty cool way to end this amazing journey that started WAAAY back in late March. It's amazing to think that he's hiked and paddled almost 3,000 miles in 8 months!

More updates from TDS coming soon!
-rg

Happy Thanksgiving from TDS!

2007-11-22T20:42:00.000-05:00

TDS is spending this lovely Thanksgiving at the Wiley Shelter just a few miles inside New York!

He sends his wishes to everyone for a great Thanksgiving!

-rg

November 5, 2007

2007-11-17T21:32:00.000-05:00

11-5-07. tenting at Black Brook, VT. SOBO mile: 556.3. 18.5 miles hiked today.

Last minute errands, a breakfast sandwich, some coffee and away I went back to the trail this morning. Yesterday was a zero day. I relaxed at the Avalanche Motel in Manchester Center, VT. It was nice to have hot showers, a tv and Bobs Diner next door. The hotel was outside of town so once I walked from EMS, in town, to the Avalanche I pretty much stayed put.

It was nice to watch NFL on Sunday. Adrien Peterson and the Minnesota Vikings looked great! They spanked Norv Turners San Diego "notso" Super Chargers. Peterson is fun to watch and I bet he is Rookie of the Year. The Patriots beat the Colts. But not by much and the Colts only finished with two Wide Recievers. They almost held on. Missed field goals and dropped passes don't win football games. I hope the Patriots and Colts meet again in the AFC Championship game. I lost a bet to Ricky "Bricklayer", I took Indy and the bounty- a pitcher of McMenamins Rubinator beer. It never bothers me losing a friendly wager when beer is up for grabs.

The EMS store was nice and full of goodies. I picked up some nylon repair tape, tent waterproofing dope, some Backpacker Pantry meels and an assortment of Clif bars. You should try the Cliff Nectar bars. The only ingredients are organic fruit and nuts. Nothing else.

From highway VT11/30 (1870') I began the 13 mile hike up to Stratton Moutain (3936'). Stratton is another "wooded summit". There are several of them here in Vermont. On top is an firetower and cabin that a Naturalist calls home during the season. The hike up was nice. The weather was great also. Blue skies and some clouds. The sun really warmed me up but the airs chill kept me from breaking very long or very frequently. Tonight the air temp, here at 2350', will dip into the 20's. Weather for tomorrow may bring showers/snow...in the am, per The Weather Channel's Bennington, VT are forecast.

Oh yea, I got another pair of gloves at EMS. Now I am carrying two pairs. One during the hike and a dry pair for camp or to replace wet gloves during the days hike. This is my glove system.

My Dad, Stan, and I will be hiking together for the last part of New Jersey. Hopefully, we will do the last sixty into Deleware Water Gap from Vernon, NJ. It will be nice to hike with Dad again on the AT and also to see how he likes the weather.

My food bag is full to the rim. For Dinner: Veggi Lasagne by Backpacker Pantry. I grabbed this one by mistake but it was good. Though, not as good as Stephanie "Green Bean"'s veggie chili.

I applied a coat of waterproofing dope to the floor of my tent. This should help. I will use repair tape to enclose another hole I burned in the tents noseeum netting. Just some minor repairs.

The sun ducked behind the mountain just before 5pm. I used my headlamp for the last 30 minutes this evening. Now it is pitch black and the stars are out.

Tommorow Glastenbury Mt (3540') and Little Pond Mt (3100'). About 35 miles to VT/MA border.

Have a great day and I hope all is well friends.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

More Photos

2007-11-16T10:45:00.000-05:00

Here are some more photos from Maine and New Hampshire - thanks Stan!

Update

2007-11-15T08:02:00.000-05:00

Just a quick update -- TDS has been pushing pretty hard the last couple of weeks, and will likely arrive in Kent, CT within the next few days. I spoke with him on Monday, and he was experiencing some very challenging trail conditions -- a lot of cold wet rain.

A key part of TDS's hiking style is to not rely on the shelter system for his overnight stays. This works well in summer, but as fall progresses into winter, it's more and more of a challenge keeping dry.

With some new boots and extra longjohns though, he should be wrapping things up in the coming weeks! Look for another update coming soon!
-rg

October 31, 2007

2007-11-04T19:18:00.000-05:00

10-31-07. from Clarendon shelter, VT. SOBO mile: 504.4. Miles to go: 390.4. 17.4 miles hiked today.

Nice weather today. Early start - 8:30am. My ankle feels normal. Its Halloween. Its just me in this shelter.

I dried my tent, tyvek ground sheet and pack cover out while lunching at Cooper Lodge (3900'), just below summit of Mt Killington. I do not think the floor of my tent is totally waterproof still. An application of ReviveX is due.

Almonds added to Liptons Parmesan noodles was a good choice. Vermont sharp cheddar helped too. I washed it down with raspberry green tea. Desert a Skor candy bar which I had before dinner. Goldish crackers for hor'doerves. And several sips of Jim Beam. Long sips since I don't have a glass or Dixie cup.

I passed a guy walking his rifle about a mile before camp. He acted like he'd had several adult beverages. I could not make the calibur but it was a bolt action and bigger than a .22, .222 or .223. Maybe he was huntin up supper? I turned and walked on after we traded Greatful Dead bootleg tapes.

Seriously, he asked if I had seen any wildlife. I said yes and explained they were all back where I hiked from. None ahead.

There is supposed to be a cafe .5 miles from VT103, just a one mile hike from here. Tomorrow morning I shall have breakfast there.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 30, 2007

2007-11-04T19:15:00.000-05:00

10-30-07. The Night Before Halloween. Me and Jim Beam tented on the side of the trail somewhere short of Long Trail/AT junction. Camped on wet leaves, probably on top of a part-time stream. Oh well, it was dark and I was through hiking. SOBO mile: approx 486.9. 16.4 trail miles hiked 17.8 total miles hiked.

Last night I made it to the privately owned cabin at The Lookout, just off the AT 900 feet or so. A ladder leaned against the cabin and led to an observation deck. The wind was bitter and the temperature was dropping so I just wanted dinner and to be in my sleeping bag. Nobody was there. I attempted to get a back log going in the fireplace and almost had fire all night. There is a loft in this cabin but I slept on the main floor hoping to get great views of the stars from the corner windows. I did plus the moon was orange and dark...kind of like Halloween.

The sunrise was beautiful. I was up for it and stayed up. I left around 9am, which is early for me of late. A little warmer today than the last two so I elected not to start off wearing rain pants.

Up and down, up and down, sprinkle in some switchbacks, roads and farmland and some more up and down. That is Vermont, so far. The Long Trail section is nicer. I did not like or enjoy Vermont the last time I hiked the AT through it. Come to think of it, I didn't like paddling through this state on the NFCT either.

VT100 is the highway leading, eventually, to the town of Killington, VT. The trail led me here and I headed Left on VT100 then Right on US4 for the Killington Post Office and General Store. What oasis did I see rounding the corner but both, along with a deli and liquor store practically all in one building. Today was a good day.

1 litre Jim Beam, 1 awesome sandwich, 1 Powerade, 1 coke and one unhealthy sugar-rich ressupply makes for a heavvvvvvvy pack. Of course the sandwich and coke went into my stomach, everything else in the pack.

Tomorrow, Mt. Killington. I am skipping The Long Trail Inn. Next full service town stop Manchester Center then Bennington, VT.

Hope all is well in your neck of the woods!

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 28, 2007

2007-11-02T14:57:00.001-04:00

10-28-07, from my tent just shy of Thistle Hill shelter, Vermont. Approx SOBO mile:455.9.

The trail crossed the Conneticut River by bridge. I exhaled a sigh
of relief, glad to be in Vermont, glad to have made it through NH and ME, glad to be walking with Fall. Over the next several miles the trail was a road. I passed under I-91 then walked through Norwich, VT until the woods appeared. It was nice to be walking in the crisp dry breeze. The colors are still all around despite the recent dumping of leaves. Twig season. The hike was very pleasent and not tough.

I left the Leadyard Canoe clubhouse and picked up the trail at 12:09pm. Osprey, his sister Anna and I had breakfast at Dartmoths food court before I split to do last minute ressupply. Breakfast was awesome and included waffle, breakfast burrito, hashbrowns and coffee. I also picked up some Tylenol Cold and Flu tabs as I try to fight off a cold. It's really almost just like allergies.

It is dryer here. Lots of pine. In fact, I am camping in a stand of pine. Nice pine needles offer another layer of padding and insulation from the grounds chill. The wind is blowing and some trees are knocking into other trees.

If the trail's level of difficulty/ease remains similiar I should make good time through Vermont. Only 438.6 miles to Deleware Water Gap and that number should shrink to roughly 385 by Halloween eve...l

For dinner tonight I had butter&herb mashed potatoes, add shredded cheese and cheddar goldfish creackers, butterfinger crisp, water.

Friends Hungus and Earthquake are meeting me to hike for a week. We all hiked from NC through the Virginia's Shenandoahs before they got ahead. Hopefully, we will get a week of good weather to enjoy. They will drive up from Jersey and we'll meet up somewhere in MA or CT. Yeeehawww!

The Vibram sole on my leftside Merril Chameleon Leather Wrap trail shoes has mangled and split down the center of the heel several inches. These should be warrantied and I will call Merril when I next find cell phone reception.

My Etowah Outfitters nylon, square bottom reversible slack pack stuff sack and alcohol stove are still going strong. I use the stuff sack as my food bag and can turn it inside out and use as day pack. It nearly has 5000 trail miles of use. Thanks Chef Paul, of Etowah Outfitters, Georgia.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

October 25, 2007

2007-11-02T14:56:00.000-04:00

10-25-07
Just down from Mt Cube (2911'), half mile. SOBO mile:412.2. 13.7 miles hiked today. left glencliffe 10:45am.

This morning at 7:30 I collected several boxes from the Glencliffe, NH Post Office then walked back across the street to Hikers Welcome hostel. It was nippy but coffee was brewing and I smoked a cigarette as the sun hit my face. A perfect day for a walk in the woods.

This hostel is ran by Packrat and friends. Ffej was there this visit. We had tacos last night and visited at the dinner table. I drank four cokes and ate an additional three ice cream sandwiches. Hikers Welcome hostel is very relaxing and has a great setup for hikers. What a movie collection! I picked out five and watched Reno 911:The Movie, Scotland, Pa and Thirteen. As always the Reno Sheriffs department had me laughing hysterically. Thirteen was very disturbing and I'd say don't watch it if you can't take being uncomfortable.

The trail today was covered with leaves. I made quite a racket as my feet shuffled through the downed leaves. There was plenty of muddy trail and I thought of golashes or waders.

The trail is so much less brutal than the rest of New Hampshire's AT. It changed quickly. To walk over trail that is more dirt than rocks is easier on the body. There still were roots, rocks, bog planks and mud but just farther between.

Today I had climbs of 600', 700' and 2000' and downs of 700' and 900'. Not bad at all! 2mph all day with breaks.

For dinner I fried SPAM and added it to some rice dish and snacked on sharp cheedar cheese. For drink I had instant iced tea. I love fried SPaM... on the trail. Lots of gorp today because I have three bags of it.

Hoping for a big mile day tomorrow, 20's through Vermont and a safe journey into the unknown (area 51) with some cool aliens.

the movie will begin in five minutes.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 24, 2007

2007-10-29T17:21:00.001-04:00

10-24-07. Glencliffe, NH. SOBO mile:398.5. Hikers Welcome Hostel. 10 trail miles hiked, 16 total mies hiked.

You ever hear of anyone climbing Mt. Mooselauke twice in one day? Well, I did. From the top of Moosilauke I took the wrong trail. I was not too concerned with the lack of white blazes. For one, I was too busy looking at the trail and the blazing through New Hampshire has@ been poor and inconsistent. Blazing may not be a top priority for the AMC. It is much easier to just collect fees...

So finally I realized I was going down but on the wrong trail. Heading back I hoped that the next trail sign would put me back on course. It did, but not until I got to the summit of Moosilauke. Three plus hours spent blue blazing. Nixed my plan of blowing through here and getting another 6-7 miles in.

I spent a night and a zero day at Chets Place in Lincoln, NH. What a great guy, a great story and a great hostel. Best of luck.

Mail boxes retrieved from the Post Office and I am readying myself for th1e trail. It is so tempting to stay with all the movies, tv and general relaxed atmosphere. Fedge is running the place for Pack Rat. Phatt Chapp is gone for the season and this hostel is the same as it was in 2005 with less beer.

My ankle is back to 80% as I turned it coming down the mountain yesterday. I have some swelling and took two Aleve last night. However, the trail will now get easier.

Mt. Moosilauke is a very beautiful mountain. It is the last time SOBO's are above treeline and it is the only mountain in NH, along the AT, that has a bald on top. The weather was beautiful and visibility fine. Heck, there was even sun shining through the moving clouds as I snacked.

Hanover, NH by Saturday morning.
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 20, 2007

2007-10-23T15:44:00.001-04:00

10-20-07 from Liberty Springs Campsite (3800'). SOBO mile:370.1. Total miles:1649.3. Total miles left:524.7.

Hiked 13.2 today. great views from franconia ridge. mountains all around. deep green, reds, yellows all the trees. good visibility and the sky was always changing. however, clouds were above 5000' so it was all good. i took some pictures. hopefully they won't look all the same.

lots of French Canadians are out and about here in the Whites. i can hear them coming because of their conversations. most switch right over to English so we can say hello or stop to talk about the weather. they all seem to be in good shape and seem comfortable in this cold, wet, steep sloshy mess.

the wind is howling and I hope it is drying all the rocks.

Glencliffe, Post Office and Hikers Welcome hostel in a couple days. Lincoln tomorrow for 1.5 more days of food.

No more zeros, 20s through Vermont.

CONGRATS White Crow AT 2007 NOBO!!!! You did it! Summit date 10-17-07. 24 other thru-hikers summitted that day.

trail wet, trail a stream in places. steep, ridiculous downhill planned slides and blocking drills with trees, hoping the tree would stop my momentum. hoping my feet land where they should. hoping I can catch myself when a fall can not be avoided. rock hoping to avoid wet, sloppy tanin rich mud and puddles of water when not a stream. roots and bog planks slick. so slick that the tiniest change in the pressure of my foot on surface catapults be to the side, or backwards and sometimes forward. catapults equals fast, greased lightning fast.

its all good though. there is plenty fragile alpine vegetation trailside to catch my falls, give way for a new trail because the real trail is to wet or rocky or rooty or steep and finally to provide a great campsite location. all the suckers who don't get off the trail and mosy abit, you know, kick your feet around, above 4000' in the fine fragile alpine terrain are missing out on a great thing.

it rained last night a good rain. started around 5pm and went on through the night. guess we needed it?

I was Only Joking about the fragile alpine vegetation thing.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 19, 2007

2007-10-23T15:38:00.000-04:00

10-19-07 from Guyot campsite just down from Mt Guyot. blue blaze .7+mile, SOBO mile: 356.9, 9 miles hiked today.

I do not know exactly the elevation here at Guyot Campsite shelter but much elevation was given up on my decent from the AT. Mt Guyot was at 4560' and here my 2000' climb ended. The blue blaze, Bondcliff trail, started out nicely then turned to a boulder bounce over slick rocks and finally steep stair steps. Quite a ways to travel for shelter in early afternoon. But with the possibility of rain at any moment, 5.5 miles to the next shelter, another 1500' decent, increasing winds and slick rocks I decided a few more hours in camp might do me some good.

The next 12+ miles will be along Franconia Ridge. I am 15+ miles from Franconia Notch/ I93/ US3 and will need to hitch or hike into town for resupply. The next shelter is 5.5 miles away and is 10+ miles to Franconia Notch. If it rains tomorrow then I will hike a short 5.5 (+ .7+ mile blue blaze) miles and hope that the weather forecast holds for clearing up Saturday and nice weather Sunday. If the plan occurs accordingly then I will get to hike more of Franconia Ridge in good weather. To see the views along this section would be worth the wait. I have hiked the ridge before and saw nothing further than the trail and cairns. Some say Franconia Ridge has some of the best scenery on the whole AT.

This is tough country and to be nursing a nagging ankle injury makes it slow going at times. I also consider that I am hiking solo out of thru-hiker season.

It was wet all day. Not from rain but from fog and drizzle and the water from trailside flora falling. All rocks were wet, bog planks slick and trails muddy and wet. The air was humid and I sweated all day.

More and more Canadian Jays, also known as Grey Jays, have been making themselves present. They love to watch you snack and will fly from locale to locale likely planning their best attack. I have seen these birds dive bomb and teamup on hikers. They still are pretty birds with lots of character.

This is a nice shelter with a great watersource and completely remote. Right now I am sitting on a bench used to climb up to the loft looking out the front into a sea of fog. I have no idea what is behind it but I love how it looks in the fir and spruce. It rained for five minutes earlier. Covering me are my dry system consisting of long johns, camp socks, shirt, stocking cap and down pullover. Warm and dry!

I am stiff and sore like no other trail sore. Calfs, Quads and Knees because of this tough hiking. But I love the hiking, the trail, the views, the challenges, the options and yes even this soreness because its' just weakness leaving my body. And a little rain or being wet never tends to be that much of a damper.

The new Merrells have been helping with tread but are running a little heavy. Heavy because they are wet, they are leather and because your author failed to apply nikwax or mink oil before wearing them out here in October. I got them literally on my way out of town and there was no time to think, or shop. Maybe, I'll use Blistex chapstick after the shoes dry? Naaa, then I would be out of chapstick.

My Granite Gear Nimbus Ozone has seen better days. i noticed a tear in the body of the pack. It was right along a stiching line of the lower part. The sidepcket has been covering the tear. I can not tell if the stitching just seperated or it is a tear in the body nylon. The other side pocket is majorly wasted. Rips vertically and horizontally finally met and now duct tape holds it in place along with the sidepocket strap. Various holes in fabric, destitching at seems and other minor issues stand in the way of this pack being 100%. However, this Nimbus Ozone still travels like a pro. With TLC, some duct tape and Krazy glue this pack will hold up for the rest of my miles.

I love Outdoor Research OR gear! Pack cover, dry stuff sack, gaitors and gloves. durable, logical and effective long lasting gear is the OR in my backpack.

Happy early Halloween!
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 18, 2007

2007-10-23T15:32:00.000-04:00

10-18-07. Ethan Pond shelter (2850'). SOBO mile:347.9. 14.1 miles hiked today.

More downhill than uphill today. Just ask my knees. From Lake of the Clouds to Grafton Notch 3,760 feet were lost. From Grafton Notch to Ethan Pond shelter 1,570 feet were gained.

The temperatures warmed late last night and melted all the snow below 5000'. This made for some slick rocks but the trail was dryer at lower elevations. Fog loomed until I got below 4000'. A heavy fog, like this morning at Lake of the Clouds, makes navigating by cairns challenging. However, the trail for the most part was good and left nothing to question. It just took me watching for cairns in addition to watching my steps.

My ankle did well today and is close to being 100%. Coming down Mt Webster and then Webster Cliffs sure provided solid tests. Some parts were so steep that I dropped my poles down the incline so I could climb down. I am thankful these were not icy, snowy or too wet!

I moved better and quicker today. While there were plenty of rocks and difficult trail, it was much less dramatic than the North Presidentials. Also, I could trust my ankle a little more and there was no snow. All in all, don't count my breaks, I averaged 2mph. Not bad.

The batteries in my headlamp are nearly exhausted.

Today was tough. I hope to do 14 again tommorow, another tough day leaving 10 to US93/Rt3 to N. Woodstock or Lincoln, NH. The weather forecast from Mt Washington Observatory called for rain and thunderstorms tomorrow. The next shelter-Guyot Campsite is 9 miles from here and at 4520'.

"Does anyone know what time it is? Does anyone care?" GANDALF, the grey.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

October 17, 2007

2007-10-23T15:23:00.001-04:00

10-17-07, Lake of the Clouds Dungeon(5040'), SOBO mile:333.8, 10 miles hiked today. 38degrees on Mt Washington at 3:50pm, winds 20-30mph.

It was nice this morning. Not too cold, not too windy, very few clouds against a blue sky. 8.5 miles to Mt Washington (6288') and all above treeline was with snow. Icy, slushy, muddy and snowy would be how I would summarize todays terrain.

I hit the trail at 9:08am fresh from a weeks worth of rest hoping for great weather and good responses from my ankle. A climb of 2800' got my blood pumping and got me on top of Mt. Madison (5363'). Mt. Madison is the first and last Presidential peak before Mt. Washington along the AT. Mt.Adams (5798') and Mt. Jefferson (5715') are accessible, however, via summit blue blazes.

The views were breathtaking and visibility ideal. Looking back I could see Wildcat mountain and the many ski runs that make up the Wildcat ski resort. Also, I had great views of Pinkham Notch and Maine in the distance.

Todays hike was slow going. I took my time and really paid attention to each step. The terrain was comprised of boulder fields for most of the hike and with 2-3 inches of snow caked to them I wanted to be sure I was stepping on rock, not air. With more new snow misstepping between rocks would be less of an issue.

From last nights campsite- Osgood tentsite, it was about 3.5 miles to Mt Washington as the crow flys. But the AT route, from Osgood, headed North and slightly East bending back slightly West to Mt. Madison where the trail then headed West and slightly North to Edmands Col. From here, the route headed South and West to Mt. Washington. The route I just described, when viewed on a map will look like the outline of a human brain. Check it out.

So the hike today was mainly above treeline and followed a ridge of peaks and always gave me a great view of whats ahead and whats behind. It was nice to see the snow again, especially in New Hampshires White Mountains Presidential Range.

For dinner tonight: Mountainhouse chili mac, ADD: sharp cheddar cheese and creackers, coconut macaroons and water. For breakfast today: Pop Tart, granola bar, coconut macaroons and water. For snacks today: sharp cheddar, cashews, granola bars, peanut butter Little Debbies, cheddar goldfish crackers, cheese crackers and water.

I saw a crow hanging out, stationary, on top of Mt. Madison. He left his position and glided down past me all the while screaming. Once past me, while gliding down the mountainside, he turned and looked back at me. I could not believe my eyes. His body moved with his neck and head but he kept flying ahead. His glance lasted maybe a second but it just seemed so akward.

The cog railroad engines were running today. My goodness, the tracks go right up to the top of Mt. Washington. The tracks are very steep and when going downhill, I noticed the car went very slow and seemed to have its' brakes applied the whole way down. I would never ride that train up or down that mountain. Talk about your extreme roller coaster!

Happy Trails,

Totally Different Subject

October 16, 2007

2007-10-23T15:21:00.000-04:00

10-16-07, 3:50pm, Osgood tentsite (2550'), SOBO mile:323.8, 4.8 miles hiked today.

Injury Update: After hiking today, first day since last Tuesday, my ankle felt pretty good. Not 100% but I'd say 65- 75%. The hike today was good physical therapy. I tested my right ankles' durability, flexibility and general strength today. The results were much better than I expected. My ankle got sorer as the day moved on. This is no surprise.

I need to continue moving surely, cautiously and slower for the next several days. This will allow for healing and my ankle will if I can keep from reaggravating the sprain.

Swelling is now isolated to the impact area of my ankle, on the outter side near the knoblike bone.

I took no pain relievers today during the hike. Just now I took 2 Aleve hoping for anti-imflamatory effects. In another effort to reduce swelling I wrapped my ankle in a 3"Ace brand bandage.

Tommorow, will be a good test with an immediate 2800' climb up to Mt. Madison and then up and down the exposed ridgeline to Mt. Washington.

The chimpmunks are so fat, they do not move very quick. In fact, if I wanted, I could easily have chimpmunk stew for dinner. Beef Stroganoff sounds more to my liking. They better leave my big food bags alone.

There is snow above treeline. From Mt Madison all the way to Mt Washington I can see snow. The temps are getting colder now. Freezing nights and mornings. However, I have heard the tomorrow should be very nice up high. I am hoping for several more days of nice hiking weather.

The Barn had shut down for the season by the time I got to Gorham from Pinkham Notch with a bad ankle and I refused to stay at Hikers Paradise so I settled into my new room/home at the Gorham Motor Inn. Seven nights I slept there so I was very ready to leave.

Antsy to go hike, excited about Mt Washington and the Presidentials and nervous about my ankle I grabbed my backpack and poles, said goodbye to Golden Waldow and moved towards the trail from Pinkham notch. Golden Waldow spends his Summers up in Gorham to help shuttle hikers. He had given me a ride to the trail via a grocery store stop and a new shoes stop.

I have a solid 5 days worth of food and new shoes. My North Face trailrunners lasted from Monson, ME to Pinkham Notch, NH ...204 miles. My new shoes are Merrell Chameleon Wrap leather brown. Leather uppers, no GoreTex, same Chameleon body and Vibram tread. Feels great, no break-in time. Low cut.

Almost dinner time.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

The Presidentials

2007-10-22T10:49:00.000-04:00

TDS has communicated that he has finished the Presidential Range and is continuing through the beautiful White Mountains of New Hampshire. Stay tuned for an update!

I wonder if they'll make two Mt Bushes once our current President's term is over...Obviously, they can't have two mountains named "Mt. Bush" -- maybe they could call one "Mount Poppy Bush" and the other "Mount George Dubya"?

-rg

View from the Top

2007-10-17T13:22:00.000-04:00

Here's Mt Washington's web cam as of 1:15pm EDT. The view is looking north, so this is the path TDS will be coming down.

If I'd realized there was a webcam, I would have told him to stand in front of it for a while so we could get a live shot of him on the summit.

Here's a link to the cam:

http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/cam/north/

-rg

Movin' Out

2007-10-16T11:50:00.000-04:00

I got a call from TDS this morning -- he's pretty excited to be finally getting back on the trail today. He's been resting for the past six days, waiting for the swelling on his sprained ankle to go down.

This is likely to be among the most challenging couple of days on his adveture thus far. TDS will traverse the entire Presidential range, and experience a net change of elevation exceeding 10,000 feet.

Here's a map of what's in store:

TDS will start out at Pinkham Notch, and hike to the Madison Springs Hut (red line from A to B) -- 8 horizontal miles and almost 1 vertical mile (the yellow line is approximately 2 miles). Since most sane people stop hiking the Presidents around early September, the hut will be closed. TDS will pitch his tent at a site nearby.

The next day, he'll hike all the way to Lake of the Clouds -- another 8 miles that will include a summit of Mt. Washington (point C). In case you're not familiar with Mt. Washington, it's the highest point in New England, third highest peak in the Appalachians, and the site of the highest recorded wind speed on planet earth (231 mph).

To say that the weather makes it a challenging climb/hike is an understatement. Yesterday, the temperature on Mt Washington was a balmy 21-degrees F, with a wind chill of -5 (50 mph winds) and freezing fog. TDS is timing his hike so that conditions will be more favorable -- the weather will likely be sunny with temps in the 30s with 25mph winds. A beautiful fall day for Mt Washington.

Here's TDS's Wednesday hike from a different perspective:

And here's a link to the Mt Washington Observatory (including a weather forecast):
http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/conditions.php

It will probably be at least 3 or 4 days before we hear from TDS, let's wish him well! Or as the French would say, "Bon chance! Laissez les bon temps roulet, mon ami!"

-rg

October 10, 2007 - Gorham, NH

2007-10-10T08:29:00.000-04:00

10-10-07. From Gorham. SOBO mile: 319, Pinkham Notch.

Well, I rolled my ankle pretty badly coming down the steep Wildcat mtn, peak E. Rolling my ankle(s) is something that occurs regularly but this time it was bad. Once I felt my foot fold underneath the ankle, I fell and slid down a slab of rock. I was able to get up and hike the couple miles to the AMC Visitor Center at Pinkham Notch. My ankle was swelling and it was pretty obvious that some ice, ibuprophen and several days off were in my immediate future. At the AMC Visitor center I met Laces and Parkbench, who met in 2006 while thru hiking, and they gave me a ride into Gorham. Laces worked as a caretaker this year in the White Mountains.

I hiked out of Gorham 10-8, after taking a zero day. I was very excited about hiking in the Whites and hoping for great weather. The weather forecast called for rain throughout the week, clearing by the weekend. I actually walked the 3.6 mile road walk back to the trail as I did not feel like trying to hitch. It was a nice walk and I enjoyed walking past the local golf course.

From the trailhead (1260') i began the climb up into the beginning of the Whites. The first big climb was up Mt. Moriah (4049') but I did get approximately six miles to climb the nearly 3000 feet. The weather was overcast, drizzly and cooler. It felt great to be on the trail. Falls colors continued its' brilliant display and I was thinking of Mt. Washington, the Presidential Range, Franconia Ridge. What would the weather have in store? Would I have great views?

With a belly full of town food and a days rest I eased up the mountain, stopping occasionally for a breather and to take in the spectacular views. The days are getting shorter now. I ended my 8 mile day at Imp shelter. What a great shelter! It had a loft, it was only inhabited by me and was as dark as Lake of the Clouds Dungeon. I slept like a log.

Thanks to Team Portland (Green Bean, Pace, Bricklayer, Cross Stitch and Hi Pockets), I had coffee and hot cocoa upon arriving at the shelter followed by a wonderful Mountain Home dinner-Jamaican Chicken with rice and beans. They sent other goodies that have supplemented my rather boring trail menu. THANKS you all! I love the food boxes you have sent too Mom and Dad!

10-9-07 I awoke to blue skies, few clouds and cool temps. What an excellent surprise I thought as it was supposed to be raining. Yeehaw! This was also important as I had the Wildcat peaks A-E of Wildcat mountain to do.

So a 1500' climb to the top of Carter Mountain (4530'), a nice ridge walk past North, Middle and South Carter peaks and then lunch at Zeta Pass (3990'). I was hiking efficiently but doing just under 2 mph.

There were some squirells and chimpmunks out playing. I noticed several birds and many moose tracks in the mud.

Another climb up from Zeta Pass to Mt. Hight (4675') and another short up to Carter Dome (4832'), a wooded summit. I took a short break here and visited with some day hikers. It had been a long day and it was already 2pm once I headed down to Carter Notch.

I had great views of Mt Washington, Mt Clay, Mt Jefferson and Mt Adams all day. This is a very impressive view when clear and I was fortunate. At 6288 feet, Mt Washington stands tall and its peak is unmistakable. I have never seen her so clearly and wondered and hoped that it would be the same once I stood atop of ye ol mountain. I took a ton of photos and several videos.

If I have not mentioned and you do not know, New Hampshire's Whites make for some of the toughest miles on the AT. Straight ups, straight downs, slabs of rock, boulders, roots help make the terrain dangerous. Add some moisture and hiking times slow way down. Sometimes, going downhill, my only option is to run as momentum would have it. During these times of crazed downhill dancing I must be ready and able to stop immediately and turn on a dime. This makes for some body (knee, ankle and feet) abuse. The difficulty makes the experience, "the" experience.

From Carter Notch (3390') I walked around the pond, near the hut, and begain the steep 1000 foot climb up to Wildcat Mountain Peak A (4380'). Once at Peak A a beautiful and scenic ridgewalk ensued as I had mild and short ups and downs across summitted Peaks B,C,D and finally E.

As I worked my way across Wildcat Mountain the blue skies gave way to clouds. However, the summit of Mt Washington was only covered up briefly and for most of the day I could see the whole mountain. On more than one occasion I wished I was up there then. So I began to hike with more purpose. The purpose was getting down to Pinkham Notch before the rain began.

There was an observation deck on top of Wildcat Peak D (4063') but I did
not stop to observe. Just before Wildcat Peak E (4041') the sound of a ski lift/ gondola caught my ear. it was actually running at 4:30pm and bringing folks up for the view. I continued.

Coming down Peak E was brutal. Straight down. At times I had to climb down boulders, other times I ran using trees and roots to stop. The trail was dry and difficult. With a tad under 2 miles to go, on a slab of steeply slanted rock I rolled my ankle. I could feel my right foot fold up under the ankle. This injury brought me down and I wound up sliding ten feet or so. I was able to get up and my instinct was to walk it off. However, this mountain was not the sidelines but I had no choice but to walk it off while hiking out. Fortunately, fortunately I was able to walk on it but the terrain made it a slow, painful and frustrating hike out. I made it to the AMC Visitor Center right at dark and was able to meet some good people- Laces and Parkbench 2006 AT thruhikers who drove me into Gorham. Thanks guys! Got checked into the Gorham Motor Lodge, got some food and began the icing of my ankle which had swelled to the size of a baseball. Doc had to temporarily shut down the Barn to tend to an issue with his other b&b, The Black Swan Inn.

It is 7:56am, 10-10, and I am maxing out the Aleve and Advil doses. Come to think of it I am out and wil have to get some more soon. I am icing and elevating my foot now and the swelling has simmered down abit. I can walk...er limp now and do have some pain. I will take today, tomorrow and perhaps another day off the foot before heading back to tackle Mt. Washington and The Presidentials. Currently, I see no reason to see a Doctor.
More later

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

More from September 29

2007-10-10T06:56:00.000-04:00

9-29-07:
So on the morning of September 28th, I unscrewed the valve on my Thermarest Prolite 4 regular length sleeping pad to not much air escaping. Yep, this bad boy still has a hole or valve leak and I still have to reinflate it reglarly and often. I wished I had time to fix the problem on zero days. I always chuckle when unscrewing the valve.

I packed up wet gear and headed up the steep climb towards Spalding Mountain (3990'). It was a climb and at times a scramble over and around slick rocks and roots. Once up the first steep 1000' climb the trail flattened abit until the final 500' climb to a blue blazed summit trail. The weather was also humid today and while on top there was fog and wind.

The views are amazing. And now the entire mountainsides are rich with color.

October 4, 2007

2007-10-08T08:44:00.000-04:00

10-4...good buddie, actually its 3:14am 10-5 Friday. From Full Goose Shelter, ME, less than 5 miles from ME/NH border. 10 and some change today...a tough 10 miles up Old Speck, down the Mahoosic Arm, through the Mahoosic Notch, up Fulling Mill mtn (south peak of Goose Eye mtn).

My legs are sore and I have been sneezing like a cat since Andover. Today I saw two people. Both were AMC employees hiking. We visited for a bit and they knew CuppaJoe (AT 05 NOBO). They are all planning an 08 PCT hike.

I went through the Notch pretty quickly, stopping once for a snack, a smoke and some water.

The weather today was again amazing. Sunny, clear skies and warm. The temperature read 68 degrees this morning at a kiosk in the parking lot of Grafton Notch.

I have been hiking in Maine now for nearly a month. The weather has been ideal, the Fall colors have been brilliant and the only moose I have seen was on a road and we were driving. Oh yea, there is a rotting moose in the Notch. The smell was horrid. I have taken five zero days here and all were warranted.

Gorham by Saturday morning to pick up food box and bounce box at the Post Office and maybe a care package from Team Portland aka Team Rob. Hopefully I will do some laundry there as my socks smell much like that dead moose!

White Crow and I stayed at this shelter last time through. There were a ton of people here then. Some section hikers and an Outing Club. I remember being put off by the noise and after the hoards of weekend warriors in New Hampshire's White Mountains I would have loved to have arrived to an empty quiet shelter. This year I did. I am tenting but am the only one here.

I love Little Debbie snacks especially the big Texas sized cinnamon roll and their fried apple pie. Both have at least 420 calories per serving.

The stars are out tonight.

I have been singing REO Speedwagon songs lately. Sometimes outloud and other times just to myself.

Talked to Bricklayer and Spoonman today while taking a break on Old Speck. Hopefully, Danni Wingfoot won't be too upset with me. Brick and I talked football which made me miss it even more. But I can hike around the NFL. I have seen all but one Monday Night Football game and I will be in Gorham on Saturday. If care package from Team Portland isnt there then I will zero Sunday, watch football, pickup box Monday on way out of town...

Until next time, cheers!
Happy Trails,

Totally Different Subject

Ed. note: Jakeleg, I didn't publish your comments because you had some private info in there, but rest assued that they have been sent to TDS. -rg

October 3, 2007

2007-10-08T08:43:00.000-04:00

sobo mile:266 approx. from table rock, a blue blazed trail, roughly half mile South of Grafton Notch/ME26.

stars our out tonight. windy up here but have some cover from trees. no fly on tent tonight. will have coffee tomorrow.

zero day, 10-2, at The Cabin (Honey and Bear or Margie and Earl). Hawkeye, Wyoming, Bullwinkle, Fishstick, Dirt, Lazy Legs. pizza for lunch. blueberry pancakes, eggs, bacon, biscuits, potatoes, strawberry jam, cantalope, coffee, orange juice for breakfast. burgers, potato salad, corn on cob, brocolli, ice cream for dinner.

23 mile slackpack, 10-1, from ME17 to East B Hill road, up and over Bemis Mtn, up and over Moody Mtn, up and over Wyman Mtn. 8:40am- 7:15pm.
view from campsite on table rock (10-3) of Speck Mtn. top socked in clouds.

hit trail 9:45am. camped 6pm. beef lo mein lipton noodles, cookies and raspberry tea for dinner.

met and visited with Rider today. he met Crash Test Dummy in Hot Springs, NC 2004.

watched Last of Mohicans at the Cabin, MNF and ate like a king. did laundry...finally. several showers. 3 nights at the cabin.

talked to white crow last night. he is trucking along and night hiked last night.

up old speck, down mahoosic arm and through mahoosic notch tomorrow, hoping to hike to carlos col shelter, just before crossing into nh tomorrow.

saw cow moose on road yesterday.

this is one of my favorite campsites of the whole trail so far.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

More New Photos

2007-09-29T09:55:00.000-04:00

Just got these from TDS via Stan Bivin - thank you! -rg

September 25, 2007

2007-09-29T09:18:00.000-04:00

9-25-07. From Safford Notch campsite (2240ft), 2 miles South of Avery Peak (4088ft) of Bigelow Mountain, SOBO mile:177.4.

Last night I stayed at West Carry Pond leanto...all by myself. Yep, nobody was there. Unbelievable and a first for me on the trail this
year.

The loons made more noise than the mice. This is a great thing. It was quite a performance put on by the males trying to gain the attention of a suitor. Or vice versa, the female trying to attract a male. The acoustics were great on the pond and I could hear so many different calls and yodles. I managed to record several minutes and may use as my ringtone since it was recorded on a cell phone.

The Fall colors are like a timeless painting. You get lost looking deeper into the colors. Reds, Yellows, brown, light green are all over this Maine landscape. Leaves are falling and starting to have a static presense on the trail. This time of year makes me think of football, turkey, pumpkin pie and Christmas present idea tv commercials.

Today, I got started around 8:30am and had a nice walk. Up over Roundtop Mountain, another hump and voila I am looking at the beautiful Flagstaff lake. This lake is part of the Northern Forest Canoe trail. I chose to not paddle her as the water into and out of were mighty low. But I can not wait to paddle this section and this time of year would be ideal....with more water and cow bell.

While taking it all in on the rocky shore of Flagstaff lake I, for the first time on either the AT or NFCT, watched three otters swim by. They saw me and held there head above water and made noises almost like they were saying "hi". They were cute and played as they swam and dived.

I made it over Little Bigelow just4 before dinner. It was a 2000ft climb but not bad.

The streams, springs and brooks are pretty much dried up. The water sources are nothing like they were this time several years ago. So when I stop for water, I tank up.

Tomorrow, another 2000ft climb to Avery Peak and then back down the mountain to 1500ft from 4000ft to Statton, ME.

It was great seeing all the NOBO's in Caretunk. We had many good laughs and beers and dips in thwe jacuzzi at Northern Outdoors. It was also neat to watch a football game. NY Giants finally got a much needed win to avoid an 0-3 start. Atta-boy, Plaxico and Eli.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

September 20, 2007

2007-09-25T09:54:00.000-04:00

Good morning readers! It is around 7:40am 9-20, Thursday, and I am about to have maple and brown sugar instant oatmeal courtesy of Quaker. The sun has just appeared over the tree line, over my left shoulder. I have been awake since 7:04.

A couple of notes while they are fresh...

Shoes: New The North Face trailrunners. My sixth pair of shoes worn while hiking the AT this year. The vote is not yet in but my money is on these new shoes not making "voted number one". I went down half size under the advisement of the shoe guy at outfitter in Greenville, ME. He said that The North Face shoes are sized bigger. While hiking downhill yesterday my toes were being jammed into the toe. This is neither comfortable nor healthy. So today I will hike without the shoes inserts. This will give me some room. If this does not solve the problem then I will use a thinner sock. Worst case scenario, I buy a new set of shoes.

My favorite shoes, still, are the ones made by Keen-Boulder and Targhee. The soles just do not last.

Last night a mouse chewed a hole through my pack cover. They gave up once through because no entry holes were evident on my pack. They also got into my food pot. Both scandals happened to be my first mice issues. So far I have been fortuante to have avoided the many mice scandals experienced by so many hikers. Last night they striked but no food was lost and gear still in tact and functioning.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

September 19, 2007

2007-09-25T09:53:00.001-04:00

hey ya'll and how are you doing? 9-19, a site .5 miles South of Horseshoe Canyon leanto, SOBO mile approx 124. a short day today, just 9.5.

site is on flat rock just above waterline, just Left off trail going S. look left immediately after noticing campsite on your Right. down steep short path. pad big enough for 2man tent, 2 1man tents or 3-4 cowboy campin. well maintained low impact fire ring. view of falls.

a nobo named splendora passed by and then came down to take a picture or two. she liked how awesome the site was. she and her partner (I could not understand what his name was after asking twice over. I just pretended to know.) were hiking to the shelter.

a nice relaxing day was had. the yellow leaves of the birches and beeches against white and purple bark ruled my attention.

lots of red leaves too from the maples.

the sun was out, the temperature mild, some humidity when near water and the air so pure. another beautiful day, again a rocky mountain high...about 156 miles left here to hike in Maine. it will get harder. today, the trail, terrain and slope were nice and easily managed.

views of all sorts of water from the trail.

took zero yesterday in Monson at the Shaws Hiker Hostel. new owners, Dawn and Sue, are extremely hospitable and sincerely enjoy the hiker clientelle. their ayce breakfast is just what the Dr. ordered at a more affordable price than a visit to the Dr. you can enjoy dinner with them most nights. Sue and Dawn are wonderful hosts. the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the hikers and the huge AT community win by having these fine ladies running their show up in Monson, ME. thanks to the Shaw's for their many contributions to the AT community and especially the AT thruhiker! best of luck Keith Jr.

I checked email and news from Monson's Public Library. I resupplied at the General Store and I enjoyed food from the Mobile station. We drove to Greenville for supplies at the outfitter. While in Greenville I saw and read the NFCT kiosk located at the Southernmost point of Moosehead lake. We all drove to the Rockwood putin to see Mt Kinneo. This highway is frequented by moose.

it felt good to not hike yesterday. my body is thanking me. todays short hike helped also. starting this last phase slowly is helping my legs and lungs get back into the groove.

again its beautiful here. i can not fully describe the beauty but hope you all might have the chance to experience these woods for yourselves.

it has been great seeing all the NOBO's. again, Congratulations for your grand accomplishent.

Granite Gear, just email me and I'll give you an address to send the new 2008 Nimbus Ozone. I'm so excited and I just can't hide it, I'm about to lose control and I think I like it!

I miss the authentic Mexican cuisine of Enriques at the Ponca City (OK) International airport.

Charles Barkley should join the cast for Monday Night Football and replace Bob Costas for all sports broadcasts. Bob is just too short and not much of an athlete.
For dinner I had Liptons Beef Lo Mein with peanut butter. I added a spoonful to the boiling water. By the time it had cooked it was more like peanut butter soup with noodles. Kind of like the peanut butter soup Jackie Boyd made for us when we stayed with her and Father Boyd while my parents were attending Criseo (m/s) years ago.

Tommorow, Moxie Bald mtn and maybe Pleasant Pond mtn...that would be a 20 mile day. i have not done a 20 mile day in Maine thus far.

I should be running into Hungus any day now and maybe White Crow before long.
Happy Trails,

Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

More to come...

2007-09-17T21:17:00.000-04:00

Ed note - TDS got into Monson, ME earlier today, and sent the updates below. I anticipate he'll be moving on shortly. As Jerry Reed once said, he's got a long way to go and a short time to get there.

In that spirit -- here is a tribute by a contemporary artiste:

September 15, 2007

2007-09-17T21:15:00.000-04:00

From chairback gap lean-to, SOBO mile 88.5, 11.7 miles hiked.

Yesterday, 9-14, i rolled out late from a wonderful campspot on Crawford Pond. there was a fire ring but I made no fire. the wind was blowing but clear blue skies and two mountains to hike-Little Boardman mountain (2017') and White Cap mountain (3654').

The trail was nice and dry. The wind blew harder as the day wore on and as I climbed higher.
I started the 2400' climb, covering 5.3 miles, around 1pm and it was nearly dark by the time I camped at Sydney Tappen campsite.

The sign on top of White Cap entered my view. Someone was taking a picture of the sign and I knew him. Not Yet with Mr. Easy right behind and I were crossing paths at such a great place. We found a place free from the wind and visited. Cool Hand Luke and Lunchbox showed up and we had a pow wow. The last time I saw Cool Hand Luke was in Louisville visiting White Crow. We caught up and stayed until we could take the cold and windy no longer.

I left the guys and started down cold and ready for dinner and a sleeping bag. Just shy of Sydney Tappen Camsite I made home on some pine needles, had dinner and drifted to sleep.
It started raining today, early this morning, so I staked out the tent fly and went back to sleep. The next time I awoke it was still raining and 4am. Back to sleep after a brief exit from the warmth of my tent. 8:45am, up for good, not raining but wet.

Everyone was sure it would clear up today with promise of nice days to come. The rain stopped and then started. When it wasn't raining the wind helped the trees drop their available standing water on those hiking underneath. There was lots of fern overgrowth that also retained water.
Tomorrow, I am hoping for terrain and weather helpful as I'd love to knock off a big day, leaving a sub-ten mile day into Monson. There a box of food awaits along with great breakfast at The Shaw's.

Only squirells, chipmunks and mice today. No Sasquatch sightings yet.

Happy Trails,
Jason Bivin
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

September 13, 2007

2007-09-17T21:12:00.000-04:00

From campsite on Crawford Pond, Maine, stealth, SOBO mile 62, 16.1 miles hiked.

What a beautiful Fall day in Maine. The air was crisp, an always present breeze kept the sweat away, cooler temps squashed the humidity and the sky was painted clear and blue. It was one of those days where each breath taken was the best. the conditions were primo for a walk in Maine's woods.

This morning we all rode across the lake from Whitehouse Landing. Once on shore and then on the trail, we said our Goodbyes. Gandalf headed North towards Mt. Katahdin with Radar while I headed South towards Deleware Water Gap. Gandalf will complete the Triple Crown once atop Mt. Katahdin and Radar will finish his first long distance hike. A hiker holding The Triple Crown has hiked all three long distance trails in the United States of America. Gandalf did them in order from the West Coast to the East Coast- Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail and the Appalachian Trail. Congrats buddy!

I took a zero day at Whitehouse Landing yesterday (9-12). Tom B, Radar, Gandalf and I had a nice relaxing day playing cribbage, chess, napping, eating and visiting. The night before Bird Dog stayed over and then Dick Wizzard, Quaso and General Lee stopped by for lunch. It was great seeing everybody.

I ate one pound deluxe cheeseburgers both evenings with chips, pickles, salad, Coke and Ben and Jerry's with homemade brownies. It was delicious and very filling.

I have seen several different types of frogs lately and a snake today. The snake was brown and camoflaged very well. He moved quickly across the trail. Some Merganzers just swam by making some racket. No loon sounds from the pond yet.

The trail was nice today, some roots, rocks, pine needles. I walked over many bog planks today. Some were safe, steady and level others were rotten, angled and slick.

The trail has passed by many ponds and several lakes for the last few days. Looking at them now, I feel a total connection.

(obviously) Passing by the lakes triggers memories of my recent paddle of the NFCT.

Congratulations to all NOBO's about to or having already finished!

The new Canon camera is making some great photos. I cannot wait to share them.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

September 10th - part II

2007-09-17T21:10:00.000-04:00

9-10-07. rainbow streams leanto. sobo mile 30.1. 11.5 miles hiked today.

Boy was I sore this morning! In fact, I did not leave the shelter until 10:22am. Jakeleg and I had the shelter and the shelter mice to ourselves. He is SOBO'ing all the way and is from Johnson City, TN. We shared some laughs and many good stories.

This morning Couch rolled up to the shelter and we visited for an hour before he headed North towards Abol bridge. We had not seen each other since the Sheny's, where we had a blast hiking and drinking.

The hike today was beautiful. Much of the hike was through the dense boreal forest, over many slick roots and rocks. The trees shed yesterdays rain, on me. But with my pack cover on- no problem.

Up on rainbow ledges, the days high point, I saw a male spruced grouse singing Barry White to the ladies. He was strutting himself around with his tailfeathers fanned. The females were flying in and one landed on a spruce limb. The females were beautifully colored brown with black specks and pretty eyes. I observed them for awhile.

Lots of breaks today. Taking it easy to give my body a chance to find the groove. I am hoping to find my trail legs soon, so some easing on down the road can be attained.

Tomorrow to White House landing for resupply and since arrival will be preceded by 16 miles I'll probably stay for a shower and the one pound cheeseburger and AYCE breakfast. Then to Monson, ME by the 16th for the final day of Whiteblaze Hiker Feed and night over. The Post Office closes at 11am on Saturday the 15th and reopens Monday. Will pick up package and boogie.

This is the last shelter I stayed at in 2005. I was here with Crosstitch, Hi Pockets, Bricklayer, Pace, No Worries and Good Ol Boy. The water in the stream was much higher then. Then it was a ford, today its a hop, skip and a jump.

Little Red and Wolf here tonight, tenting. It was nice seeing them.

For much of todays hike the trail was near Rainbow Lake and it reminded me of my recent paddle. Yesterday, I hiked along the Western branch of the Penobscott river.

Yesterday, while talking to the Ridgerunner, Bluebearee, I noticed a pileated woodpecker fly by and land in a tree. I pointed the bird out to Bluebearee. It was the first one she had ever seen up here.

I will need to get some new shoes soon and preferably before Mohoosic Notch and arm. Maybe some Merrell's or Keen's or Solomon's.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

September 10, 2007

2007-09-17T21:06:00.000-04:00

7:10am from Hurd Brook shelter, mile 18.6 SOBO and its raining.

Yesterday, I awoke from the Birches Campsite, took my time and finally hit the trail around 9am. I was pretty sore from the big climb up Katahdin. Todays hike was nice and after a little time the soreness went away.

While hiking yesterday I met Bluebearee, NOBO '02. She is the ridgerunner for this section. Got to see Dances With Sloths, Sandwich, Sublime and Gorilla on there way to Abol Bridge campground. They all had the same empty but intense look. I know that look. I am hoping they all get a brilliant summit.

I hiked 8 miles from the entrance of Baxter. I spent the night at Roaring Brook campground and before 7am the following day I headed up the mountain.

The Helen Taylor trail was all uphill and it was steep, a lot like the Hunt Trail. But since you are climbing towards Baxter Peak it's pretty easy to forget the toughness.

The weather was windy and foggy. Very windy and the higher I got the fiercer the wind blew. At the end of Helon Taylor trail is Pamola Peak at like 4900 feet. From there you can take the 1.1 mile Knifes Edge to Baxter Peak. Once on top I put on additional clothes, ate lunch and began the wait, along with others, for the weather to clear. Occasionally, the fog would blow away so that I could see Knifes Edge. It was usually for just moments but enough to see the severity of this trail.

Finally, I could wait no longer and headed down the Chimney to begin what would take two hours. The Chimney is the first obstacle. This starts with a 20-30 foot shear drop that you must negotiate down to a narrow pass before doing the same. It was a climb not a hike.
Along the way, wind gusts in excess of 30 mph had me hugging rocks like we were old friends and clawing at any crack that would hold. Most people do this with a peak bag, I did this with a 40+ pound pack.

Oh yea, it was narrow, with shear drops and the rock was jagged, angled and akward. I took my time. And it was still very scary but eventually I was like there is no going back and one slip would be the end, my friend.

I made it through the fog and wind and once at Baxter Peak, well, the same weather. My second time on top and no blue skies but it did not matter. I made it across Knifes Edge, I summitted Katahdin, got to do several other peaks up there, a different trail and no double miles.

Once down, I ran into Rio, Hemlock, Cocoa, Monkey and others. Blue Skies and I spent an hour together on top. She stayed longer than I hoping for blue skies. She got them as patience paid out. I was sore, my legs jelly and it was like I had not hiked at all this year.

To the Birches for sleep.

Great to be on trails that were meant for hiking. I have enjoyed being able to share my Northern Forest Thru paddle with others. There are many more paddling enthusiasts out here than I knew. In fact, the ridgeunner Bluebearee, knows one of the Pennsylvania 4 who did a thru-paddle this year.

Its raining now and while we need it bad, well, its always hard to get out in it when you are warm and dry.

I will try to make it to Monson by the 15th or 16th because Whiteblaze.net is hosting a hiker feed/gathering. Also, I have a food box waiting...the 15th is Saturday and the Post Office closes at 11am. So maybe I'll get there on the 16th. Only time will tell.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

From 9-7-2007

2007-09-17T21:05:00.001-04:00

9-7-07 from picnic table in front of bunkhouse at roaring brook campground, east of Mount Katahdin.

This morning I had another wonderful breakfast at the new and improved Appalachian Trail diner, recently taken over by AT veterans Ole Man and NaviGator. They also bought the Appalachian Trail Lodge. The lodge is where hikers, bikers, snowmobilers and hunters can stay at an inexpensive, turn of the century, boarding house. Stay in the bunkhouse or a private room- they are all fine and Ole Man and Navigator are such nice and helpful folks. They are both true friends of the trail and are AT hikers themselves. While at the diner, sit up at the bar and you will be amazed at the past AT memorabilia. Even if you sit elsewhere you should spend a minute checking out the potpourri of AT regalia.

I took care of some post office business which consisted of packing and sending a food bounce box to Monson, ME and a box headed for my folks house- headquarters.

I was able to hitch to Baxter State Park entrance. From there I walked to the entrance booth. It was lovely to be greeted by such sour, rude, wise-assed park rangers and gate keepers.

Maybe they had a bad day, we all do? I was quickly advised that I needed reservations to stay in the park and they were not going to let me start up Katahdin. Instead of helping me resolve the problem, they kept giving me flak. Finally, I asked if I could hike down the Roaring Brook Road and camp there, summit Katahdin tomorrow via the Helen Taylor and Knifes Edge trails. There was one spot available in the bunkhouse, so I paid the ten bucks and headed down the eight mile road with thoughts of Katahdin, Maine, The Knifes Edge, the Whites and finishing this journey swimming through my mind.

Lots of traffic on this gravel and dirt road. I had a great view of Katahdin while passing a break in the trees. She is different when viewed from the East.

This is my third time to Baxter State Park and each time both the gate keepers and rangers have been rude, wiseassed, and unhelpful. They must hate their job or they hate hikers that don't always want to pay for a campsite or always stay in their few designated campsites.
So I will take the Helen Taylor trail to the Knifes Edge trail to Baxter Peak, Mount Katahdin. 4.3 miles and 3807 feet to the top. Then down Katahdin, atop the boulders making up what looks like a spine from the top, back to treeline and off on my SOBO AT finish.

I am carrying a pretty heavy pack. I have about seven days worth of food and have no plans to stop until Monson, except for sleep and breaks, of course.

Dinner time! And am hoping for a 4am or so start. I would love to watch the sunrise from Knifes Edge or Baxter Peak...

**Newsflash*** An overbooking occurred tonight at the bunkhouse. I volunteered to take a campsite. Jo, from Providence, RI, who is a ranger here at the campground, found me a great tent site and everyone is happy.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject
http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com

Through the 100-mile wilderness

2007-09-17T21:01:00.000-04:00

Ed note: it's been confirmed that TDS is now through the 100 mile wilderness! It's the wildest section of the AT -- you need to bring 7+ days of supplies because there's no where to get them along that section. It goes from Baxter State Park to Monson, Maine.

My apologies to our posters who left some very nice comments to TDS -- I'm sorry it took so long to get your stuff posted. They are now out there, and I hope you'll continue to visit this site and stay updated on TDS's grand adventure. -rg

September 5, 2007

2007-09-05T14:13:00.000-04:00

Greetings friends, family, countrymen....

I am typing from Northern Door Inn, a wonderful hotel, in Fort Kent, Maine. I have finished the NFCT paddle!!!!

It felt good to take a long shower last night and an epson salt bath today. I am warmer than I was yesterday during the last 17 mile paddle. I turned my canoe over not 50 feet from the end of the paddle.

Last night I had sirloin tips, baked potato and salad for dinner at the Swamp Buck restaurant. And some beers at Bee Jays. Everyone that I talked to mentioned the two guys here a month ago carrying a canoe. It was Ben and Jessee of the Wisconsin 2.

For updates of the last 9 days, check out my blog, http://www.totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com/ And if you do, and send this email to 25 of your friends, my tracking software will go straight to Bill Gates and the inventor of the internet, Al Gore, and they will send you a check in the amount of $10 for each person you send to and $5 to each person they send it to. Trust me, it works, I am not an attorney but I did stay at the Northern Door Inn last night. hahahaha.

I hope former Gov. Jesse "The Mind" Ventura decides to run for presidency for our sake because the current candidates are clowns. Sorry Hillary fans.

Looking for ride to Millinocket, Baxter State Park to begin SOBO of AT from Katahdin back to NJ/DWG. I wonder how long it will take to get trail legs and lungs....?

Happy Trails, Best of Luck and Love,
Jason Bivin aka TDS.

September 3, 2007

2007-09-05T14:08:00.000-04:00

9-3-07, its 7pm'ish and I am pretty tired.

28 miles today. From pelletier campground on the st johns river, near saint francis, maine, 17.5 miles to fort kent, maine, the end...my only friend the end.I just can't believe it. I really could live up here all year round.My hearing must be off or perhaps congested since all my songs I sang today sounded horrible, you know a little off. Or some might say way off. There was not only a store in allegash village but a diner.

Right before the bow back to the allegash bridge there is a big sign that read lunch. A pepsi symbol under the word lunch. Guess where I went? Double cheeseburger with bacon, large french fries and a pepsi. The real treat was visiting with bluegrass kelley a mandolin picker of many, many years. We had a nice talk and if I ever am in maine in june, I’ll definitely hit the bluegrass festival on the coast to hear him pick. The folks there were real nice!

Thank you keen for making some great durable, sticky and tough water sandles. These have lasted until a couple days ago and as rough as I am on shoes, i'd say you have one he11uva shoe/sandle. Now trash the glued together soles on your targhees and use a one piece molded vibram sole. You will have a customer forever and the best low cut hiking boot.

No moose today. I talked to two others on the water and they had not seen any either.The water on the allegash river was scratchy in many places so I was watching the water more than the scenery.Wind at my back today. It made the water pushy. But at times I could fly 3, maybe 4 mph without a paddle in the water. Not all day though.

Should I perm my beard or what? Let me know what you think. Should I not cut my hair and go with a mullet until there is world peace?I sure would have liked to see randy moss and bret favre play together on the same team. Maybe in 2008 both favre and moss will wind up playing for holmgren in seattle...

A big thank you and round of applause to my boy rob gore for managing the blog. With grad school, a fulltime job at wellsfargo, a wife and 2 boys I don't see how he finds the time. I think it looks great and the blog is something that i'm proud of. If I were to manage one, hopefully it would look as good.

Hey, has paris hilton left a comment yet? While in line at the grocery store, I noticed lyndsey lohan made the cover of maxim. I checked out the pages containing her hottie images. I didn't, however, read the story. Wonder if anybody else didn't read her story?

It rained last night, the sun was out early this morning and a wind was active. Life can't get any better.I do not think my mom, susie, would allow my gear in her house. He11, she might not let me in. I have a pur water filter pump, msr miox pen and polar pure at home. I have used none on my at hike or nfct paddle. Thank goodness I just love gear. Let me know if you would like to borrow one.

You ever notice the good guys never run for political office? I like actors, they are entertaining.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

September 2, 2007

2007-09-04T16:14:00.000-04:00

From cunliffe depot campsite, allegash river, maine, 45.5 miles from ft. Kent, maine, northern terminus of nfct.

Wow! Ideal, ideal, ideal conditions today. Very little wind. Any wind was always at my back. No rain, just sun and blue skies. Although, it was nearly 10am before the sun burned off the fog. There were dark clouds too but they went away. And all downstream, mostly quick water and some rapids.

33 miles paddled today, my biggest day. Also, I saw more wildlife today than any other, anytime or any other place! Today I saw 8 moose (1 bull, 6 cows and 1 calf), 2 bald eagles (one swooped down right in front of me for some fish), 2 snow shoe hares, 1 ermine swimming, many great blue heron, blue jays, grey jays, canadian goose, loons, tons of fish jumping or swimming, 1 osprey, other ducks and birds.

I wonder if moose, especially cows, like people? It seemed they have always been very near a campsite. Always in the water too, eating. They also don't seem to mind me. I give them plenty of room and talk to them in passing. They are fun to watch because they seem so chill, easy come easy go. Maybe its just the time of year?

I loved watching the bull this morning. He let me get close enough to get a spectacular viewing. He was in the water so that it came to his shoulders. Given the depth of the water of umsaskis lake just south of the bridge at the thoroughfare, I knew this guy was tall. His rack was large and all velvet gone. He would submerge his head and part of neck under water to forage. Once satisfied, he would pull his head back up and chew. The sound of the water trickling, running actually, off his head back to the river sounded like a waterfall, or like when you just step out of the pool and the water runs off your body and swimsuit and hits the water or ground. Over and over he would do this and I just hung out to watch for awhile.

Both eagles flew close enough that I could see their eyes and the detail of their feathers. The one that swooped down on his prey had large talons and to see the whole process from flight to swoop to catch to eat makes me feel blessed.

Gosh, what a great paddle! To cover as much ground felt great. It has been one of the few days I have not had to fight weather. Oh, glorious day. How bout another one, tomorrow?

The weather here is constantly changing, this time of year. One day it rains, the next day wind and gusts in your face, then maybe a thunderstorm with lightning or intense sun and hot, or cold. Each condition means something different for the canoeist.

Like say the wind in your face. You can paddle through some. It makes for long days, your mph goes down and your muscles get a workout. But what happens when its blowing so hard you can not paddle any further? Or what do you do on a big body of water when the wind is causing waves that now are dangerous? How about thunder and lightning? Often, the answer is to get off the water. Sometimes it may be temporary and at times the wind ends your day.

A day like today can not be beat for paddling. And a place like this would be hard to beat.

Mountains were in abundance today. The maples have started turning red. Fall is around the corner here in maine, usa. Many brooks and streams dumped into the river making for some riffles and mostly swift water.

I just knew a big day was possible. Hell, my arms are not sore at all and I never stopped paddling today when on the water. Only two breaks and both under 20 minutes.

I need a couple more big days to Ft. Kent. Hopefully, the St. John river will be running and not low and scratchy. The last 27 miles are on it. The St. John river is the international border between the Maine, United States of America and New Brunswick, Canada. It is illegal to land on the canadian side.

My camera has not worked since yesterday. Too bad as today brought some once in a lifetime photo opps. Maybe, if the camera is not working, I will get a disposable camera at allegash village. I hope to make it in tomorrow as I hear they have a store. Eighteen miles stands between here and there.

To save fuel, I cooked dinner on a fire tonight. Mountain home spaghetti and meat sauce. I could go for some italian cuisine big time.

I can't believe the paddle is almost over. Not sure what the official mileage will be but whatever it comes out to this has truly been a privilege, a challenge and a victory.

I know hiking maine and new hampshire will eat my lunch, but seriously after what I have endured over the last month and a half on this trail, this paddle, I feel like I can survive, I can survive.

The allegash wilderness waterway ought to be in your top 20 things to do and see in your lifetime.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

September 1, 2007

2007-09-04T16:08:00.000-04:00

From umsaksis lake, just 1.5 mile shy of map 13, the last map. Had to pull over due to high northwest winds. I am paddling northwest and this is the worst I have seen in the whole paddle. The lake is black with plenty of whitecap to boot. At least 3 ft waves rolling into me.

It has been a battle all day and since I can no longer make forward progress I will break. Break either momentarily or for the day. Its almost 4:30pm but I had hoped to have a big day. If stopping here, 15 miles. Hoping wind will die soon.

Broke camp and was paddling by 8:50am. Apparently, too late. But seriously, at 5am it was just as bad. I know because nature called. Rough paddle heading up churchill lakes west shore. Briefly through heron lake, which is more of a pond when compared to many of Maine's lakes, a short portage around churchill dam and I was ready to have some whitewater fun. I also figured here would be the place to make up some time.

The ranger took my gear down four miles to a place where bissonnette bridge used to stand so I could hit the class II rapids dry. In my canoe, having no weight means the canoe will skip right over the waves. They charge ten bucks and many do it. I joined the crowd.

Very nice to be heading downstream on the allegash river. Once I got knocked sideways and out by a unexpected and unseen rock. I actually almost rebounded center from the left with a third of canoe filled but just rocked back over right. So I got to go swimming a bit. Kept everything but a bottle of water. Had one sandal clinched between my teeth, one arm over the stern end and a hand grabbing my paddle. Here is how bad the wind was...I was through the rapids in some flatwater, swimming over to the shore when a gust came up and started moving us back upstream. Only me and my thwart bag got wet, and all its contents. Namely my camera. By the way, pelican 1030 series watertight boxes are NOT watertight, waterproof or water resistant. Maybe nothing is out here?

Got to gear, dried out, visited with some folks who just ran the rapids. They were doing several trips in the area for labor day weekend. Warmed up, ate the last of todays snack rations and headed back down the allegash.

The last several days, I have just been drinking water out of the lake or river. It is probably not going to kill me and I never took it from a source that was stagnate, standing or hosted beaver lodges. The water tastes pretty good. The first part of maine I was boiling water. Geez, this is a timely method of purifiction. Now, the 15 minutes with polar pure or iodine tabs, or 20+ minutes with aquamir seem quick.

There are tons of different types of mushrooms here in these woods. Yellow, orange, red, brown and various earthtone colors to one that almost seemed like a black light was shining on it. Will try to take some photos.

A ranger said there is a store in allegash village. The family informed me that the st john river is running low. Until a ranger says so I am inclined to not believe the family. St john river is the last stretch of the nfct, running the last 27.5 miles into ft. Kent, maine.

If a store is there and open I will supplement a shrinking food bag with fried apple pies, little debbies, beef jerkey, granola bars, etc. Heck, i'd even lug some beer.

More later.

Its nearly 7pm. The wind has died down some and while there will be another hour of sunlight, I just could not get warm eating dinner. Its been cool today, temps in 60's with that wind. My feet have been numb pretty much all day. In socks, longjohns, down jacket and stocking cap, tucked inside sleeping bag I am now. To finish sept 5, I have 4 paddling days, 3 dinners and 3 daily snack rations (about 1700 calories per day) and 78.5 miles.

Oh yea, those squirells with little thin flat tails, well, they are called ermine and I am not sure if they are related. A picture of the animal along with its name was on a bulletin board of churchill dam.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 30, 2007

2007-09-04T16:05:00.000-04:00

From mud pond, less than a mile from chamberlain lake. Its 3:10pm and I'm in the tent.

The rain started about the time I was unpacking canoe for mud pond portage. A 1.8 mile jaunt covering slick rocks, tree blow down, moose muck, mud, mosquitoes and the spooky chance of a moose runin. The trail was marked with a white arrow on a red sign. The trail was more like a stream and very narrow. It was fun and with a canoe overhead I avoided the rain. I did get wet though. Sometimes I’d walk in water up to knees. The put in, following the portage, was moosemuck for 20, 25 feet out. The kind where you sink. Pulling out of one hole, the back strap of my keen water sandal broke.

While paddling up Lake Umbazooksus, I saw moose #4 and #5, a cow and calf. Mom was out 100 feet from shore, in this very shallow lake, and her calf was between her and the shore, much closer to the shore. I slowed and as I neared the calf ran towards mom. I turned back and paddled away. More as a gesture, just waving my white flag. Mom turned to look at me then with calf behind they headed for shore. This was very near the takeout for mud pond portage.

Once back in the canoe, I was paddling through mud with all my might and finally broke into some deeper water. The rain kept on coming down, thunder occurring and now fog. I could not see well and with the wind at me I pulled over and set up tent.

Only ten miles so far today. I had planned on 20.

The best place I found was a place that is the worst place to set a tent, let alone have to sleep... A giant root runs under where my hips would lay. At my ankles another along with a severe dropoff. With my pack under a tree I began pulling items out for setup. I did a pretty poor job at keeping tent dry. It was pouring.

Dried as much out as I could with silk bag liner. Got back into it and in sleeping bag. Ate lunch. Read. Getting warm and the rain stops, no sun and a wind. So no chance of drying gear out.

Stepped outside to look at the weather, to see if I might pack up and venture out in search of mud brook into chamberlain lake. Cold, windy, cloudy and looked like it might rain anytime and I was still cold so with all my gear wet, I decided to get back in tent, get in longjohns and down jacket, back in sleeping bag.

The day is pretty much bagged, so I will read some, have dinner, get to bed early and hopefully have a sunny morning tomorrow with successful passage to chamberlain lake.

2 portages today, 1 mile and 1.8 mile. The first was from longley stream bridge, at umbazookus stream, along longley stream road to marked sign for putin at umbazooksus lake, avoiding bog. The other, I spoke about earlier. I may have just completed the last of the long portages...if memory serves me accurately.

Happy trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 27, 2007 -- out of order

2007-09-04T16:04:00.000-04:00

8-27-07, from moosehead lake, me. map 11.

an evening start. paddled an hour from the public boat access, near town of rockwood, me. water nice and smooth and no wind during evening paddle. got to camp-hardscrabble point around 7:00pm and established camp. tent up, temp now getting cool, a very nice coolness. not too far from water. should get nice sunrise over shaw mountain and little kineo mountain to the east and north.

lots of food. rations for 8-10 days. dinners, bagels, chips, ham, cheese, beef jerkey, granola bars, little debbies, a few energy bars and misc. will be my diet. no fishing. not going to eat berries because i dont want animals eating my food.

got a book, tobacco, the water, the woods, a canoe, paddles and pack.

very excited to have these miles, here, in front of me. the northwoods of maine. deep. the roads, towns, people and cars are fewer than woods, water and wildlife, here in maine.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 29, 2007

2007-09-04T16:03:00.001-04:00

Oh what a beautiful morning...its 8:35am, still in camp. A ranger stopped by early, we visited, she wrote me a permit and I paid five dollars. For this, I do not mind paying. Muskrat dancing in the water last night under a full moon. A big bull moose is having breakfast not 200 feet away.

I heard what sounded like swimming. I walked down to the shore and could not see anything. With camera in hand I started walking to the noise. Sure enough, across the river was ol big bull eating. He heard me, and looked in my direction. I took some photos and let him be.

Two guys in a motor boat with buckets (probably loaded with food scraps to bait bear for upcoming hunt) scooted by and spooked him off back into the woods. I was then about to hit the water and hoped he and I might visit. No such luck.

They do an excellent job maintaining campsites up here!

A nice swift paddle down the Penobscot should be expected according to the ranger. Chesunook Lake is down, which could create some issue getting to mud carry, a 1.9 miles portage into Chamberlain Lake, the southern Allegash region. If Umbazooksus stream is low and not navigable, there is Longley Street road to Umbazooksus Lake and then mud carry portage.

6pm. Dinner time, camped at Longley stream campsite on Chesuncook Lake. Winds of south today. This made paddling down the Penobscot a breeze. It made paddling chesuncook wobbly.

Saw my 2nd bull moose today, just shy of long pine campsite today. He was big. He did not stay in the water long. After a good look at me he climbed out of the river and walked the bank until back in the woods. Great pics. It has been so awesome happening upon these moose. They truly are large and in charge.

The flies are horrible at this site. What a nuisance these bastids are! Have not seen them so thick since the pct.

Saw osprey, bald eagle, moose, Canadian geese and other birds.

Sunny today and few clouds.

Near the end of the Penobscot and beginning of Chesuncook Lake the winds picked up and created jerky water. Waves behind me and to the side. I decided to call it a day and get off the water.

Boiled water today, for lunch and dinner. Not sure how potable the Penobscot was and this lake is low and I would bet the quality, also not potable. To save what fuel I have left, I used a campfire to boil water and make dinner. If boiling proves to not be enough, well, I have a script of flagil.

Will have to ration food, especially snacks. About 120 miles left and five days, maybe five and a half rations. Never seem to get these long stretches right. Too much or too little.

Some clouds are moving in. I suppose some rain is due.

Excellent view of Mt. Katahdin today, upon hitting the lake. Can’t wait to be there looking down!

Getting back to katahdin and or my truck in Rockwood, ME has been on my mind. If I could get back without having to wait, I could summit katahdin by September 10. If this can be accomplished then I will be five days ahead of schedule.

Allegash tomorrow! Yee haw!

The sound of waves crashing against the beach will make soothing sleeps. What beautiful country this is and what fortune I must hold to be here breathing it all in.

Happy trails,
Totally different subject

August 28, 2007

2007-09-04T15:50:00.000-04:00

From west branch Penobscot River, ME. Camping on Thoreau Island.

Moose in water just 100 yds from camp, Penobscot rvr, young cow, muskrat (swimming in Penobscot, small flat thin tale, larger head, neck area), bald eagles (overhead, near Thoreau island), pileated woodpecker, chipmunks, fish, gray jays.

13 miles lake paddle, Moosehead Lake. 2 mile portage. 4 mile river paddle, Penobscot River.

Only few boats on lake. None on river.

Logging roads, fast trucks.

Spring on portage trail- northeast carry. Good water.

Boreal forest. Penobscot River.

Noseeums bad.

Macaroni cheese with ham and macadamia cookies, water, wheat thins for dinner.

Craving taco bell and ben and jerrys ice cream. New fav-caramel sutra ben and jerry...caramel center...

Black herons???? With yellow beaks but fly flatter and more like ducks. Or is this a duck.

Love the smell of this type of forest.

Fish are jumping. Tenting close to water.

Sunny and clear today. Some clouds moving in but up high. Perfect weather. Nice campsite. Henry David Thoreau was to have camped on this very island.

It is so beautiful here, so natural and uninhabited. Many people are gone for the season. Lake homes are closed up and emptied until next year. Very remote.

Tomorrow, from Chamberlain Lake I will get good view of Mt Katahdin.
Loving the book, we took to the woods, by Louise Dickinson rich. Humorous and full of area Maine history.

August 23, 2007

2007-08-28T11:47:00.000-04:00

8-23-07.
From Old Forge, NY. Waiting on locksmith.

A great friend, Spoonman, summed up his 2005 AT thru-hike by saying it was all about MANAGING DISCOMFORT. This discomfort can take on many forms for many people in many different endeavours. What Spoonman said resonated with and will stay with me until they throw dirt in my face.

Discomfort, setbacks, mistakes or hard times are as much a part of any long distance endeavour as they are in life. We all experience them. We all experience them. How we manage them is the only thing that differentiates us from the next fella that loses his wallet, his paddle, his hiking sticks or his job.

I appreciate the kind emails offerring encouragement and support while I splash along North during this padddle and soon trudging South for my hopeful conclusion of the AT thru-hike. The emails or voice mails, believe you me, seem to always come at a most crucial time. My only hope is that I can be as supportive, encouraging and understanding of others moving forward. Might this be THE most important lesson?

Along the Northern Forest Canoe trail I have had some setbacks, endured discomfort, overcome bad decisions both in the water and on the ground and hit emotional breakpoints. I am no different than anyone else who has attempted this trail or any other. But we perservere in the end and more importantly when we are in a pinch. Some of us finish, some do not. Some, regardless, get what we are looking for and others have only had their palate teased and will move on in search of another journey. I fall somewhere in between.

I am excited to soon be paddling the last 160 miles or so of the NFCT up in Northern Maine. With some help shuttling I might add some more miles. I also am excited about hitting the AT again and seeing all of its' splendor. Also, I am curious to see how my legs and lungs will fare after all the water time.

When this season is over and I head back West, to begin working and saving, I will not stop thinking and planning my next adventure. There is just too much beauty out there in the woods for me to just read about it in a magazine. Our life is pretty short and we all want to make the absolute most of it regardless of where that occurs.

Doing this paddle solo has really taught me about interdependance and while I am fortunate enough to possess a support net that ranges from sea to shining sea, I have proved to myself that I can survive, that I can work through a problem by assessing, planning and executing. Of course I can and do still whine from time to time. Perhaps, the whining puts us on notice that a change to a situation is imminent and most necessary?

I met John Aralia the other day while getting on a bus from Gorham, NH. We visited the whole time and wound up splitting a rental car. I arrived here last night, we camped and early this morning John headed back to NJ. He had just completed the IAT, SOBO and is already planning his next adventure which may be a hiking trip across Ireland. We are both cut from the same stock. We both have the same spirit and lust for adventure. He has hiked many long distance trails and had great stories. Our meeting was truly fortuitous.

One more note on fortuitous meeting... From Groveton, NH I recieved a ride from a guy to Gorham, NH where I hoped to hop a bus the follwing day to Old Forge, NY. We got to town and John dropped me off in front of THE BARN hostel. I saw Mr. Smoke (2004 AT) walking from the hostel to his truck. We had not seen each other since Trail Days. In a NY minute I was in his truck visiting with he, Mrs. Smoke and 2004 Socks. We had a bbq and visited that night, had ice cream, talked paddling and watched aconcert in the park. The next morning we got up, had breakfast, visited and Mr. Smoke drove me to the bus stop. What I did not know, is that they are avid paddlers and have had many experiences paddling in Maine. They gave me tips on the Allegash and shared their stories. Great people, great friends. I am the luckiest guy in the world. And now, if Paris Hilton would come paddle this last section with me, I'd be so close to complete.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Bear - The Morning After

2007-08-22T11:45:00.000-04:00

8-20-07

Its 9:20am , I just woke up and am still in the sleeping bag. It got cold last night and if like the night before down in the 30's. I am with a 40 degree bag and a silky. With long johns, socks, stocking cap and down jacket on I still was cold. But no more bear encounters. Food bag still in tact besides the lousy hanging job.

This cold spell is making me nervous. If this change in temperatures remains then I wonder if there will be enough time to finish. Its late August and with 5.5 maps to go on the paddle and 800 miles left to hike I figure I’ll be at this into November. Hopefully, this is just a cold front and warmer temps will come back for awhile before fall sets in, in earnest.

There is an open air privy here and it will get used before I break camp.

More later today...

8-20-07...still. Ammonoosic River, close to red dam, which is being taken down. I will not have to portage around this one, just paddle through the open gates. 16 long, hard miles today.

On the water by 11am. Late. My neck is killing me. Took ibuprophen this morning. First time all paddle.

The river was shallow and meandering in the beginning and surprisingly pushy. Eventually it opened up but remained shallow. Scratchy paddling, lots of walking my canoe and many trees in river.

My good Sawyer bent paddle may have seen its last day. Too bad. I loved it. My backup paddle, well a backup and short.

I saw a lone loon this afternoon. She almost seemed tame as she let me get very close, within ten feet. Don’t get me wrong, it was a narrow part of the river and I pulled over but she would not move. I took pictures but they did not come out good. My camera needs some work, maybe a lens buffing and the guts air dusted or perhaps trashed. It was so cool being that close to that bird. Its like we bonded. Loons are much bigger than you would think. Their black and white color

Against the water makes them appear much smaller. She had red eyes and seemed to yawn several times, I knew exactly what she meant. No kidding, but at one point she stuck her leg back and out of the water. Unbelievable and I wonder why that. A treasurable moment to say the least.

Percy Peaks and Devils Slide stole the scenery award today.

Not much more to report. Not sure whether I will paddle North up Connecticut River, hitch a ride north to do Connecticut downstream or skip it and go back to Maine. Time is running out and my nightmares are about running out of weather on the Appalachian Trail.

Walked into Groveton, NH for dinner. Meatball sub, french fries, Coke and a couple innings of the Red Sox vs TB Rays.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Bear Encounter

2007-08-22T11:35:00.000-04:00

** Yesterday, in a trailjournal entry I said that I picked up the book, We Took to the Woods by Louis Richardson. This is wrong, her name is Louise Dickinson Rich. My apologies.

8-19-07. Sunday. By the fire alongside the Ammonoosic River, NH. Cordwell campsite...a first come, first served freebie. 24.3 miles today. 2 portages- 250 yds and 3.8 miles.

For breakfast this morning I had eggs, bacon, sausage, home fries, French toast, regular wheat toast and coffee all for under ten bucks. It was wonderful and just the nourishment I needed!

While I should not have, I took a zero yesterday because Todd and his staff at Northern Waters Canoe and Kayak, in Errol, NH, invited me to stay for their season end party. How could I say no? The guys were great and the evening’s menu consisted of Maine rock lobster, bbq ribs, corn on cob, bbq meatballs and blueberry pie. What a special treat!

We all hung out by the fire the night before after I only put in 10 miles due to a wrong turn on a 4 mile portage. The wrong turn cost me 6 hours. By the time I arrived at the dam and portaged around it I could only think of resupplying and a place to stay for the night. It was getting late and I got out to scout the rapids before taking the plunge. What I first observed where people camping along the river. Yes, I thought, so with no time wasted I went searching for the head honcho. He was Todd and once I introduced myself I learned that he knew of me. We shot the bull for several minutes and Todd welcomed me, invited me to hang out around the fire later and described where food, gear, ice cream and adult beverages could be found.

**I stopped typing so I could eat dinner- Mountain House chili mac. Once finished, the fire almost gone and no more firewood, I began preparing for bedtime.

As I was making sure the fire was under control I noticed eyes, two of them. So I stood up and shined the headlamp in that direction because maybe they weren't really there.

But they were and not 15 feet away, in some brush at the perimeter of this campsite and just 10 feet from my tent stood a bear! The bear was not fully grown and so immediately I scanned for another bear. None were to be found. Ol' scary bear did seem bigger than a cub, perhaps a year or two but I could not say precisely.

What am I going to do in this situation? No gun, no rocks, no knife except for a Swiss Army pocket knife. So I picked up my wooden paddle and banged it against the nearest tree. The bear was unmoved by this gesture. He seemed timid or curious, perhaps a wee bit scared but maybe I am just hoping so. I looked around and the only rocks were lining the firepit. They would have burned my hand severely had I had to pick one up. So I stepped towards the bear, partly out of curiosity but mainly to scare him off. This did not. He then stepped towards me and this afforded me a better look at his size. I was thinking jeez, what an inconvenient time to see the first bear of this paddle. I knew he could outrun, out climb, out swim and probably out paddle me. So loudly I said Leave! Again and even louder I shouted, Leave me alone! He was looking at my cook pot and then it occurred to me...the food. Was he just curious of my presence, was he hungry or not really and just wanted a ! Free dinner? I do not know. He turned and walked back into the woods.

I started using the courtesy woodpile I assembled for the next camper to stoke the fire. Then I went to hang a bear bag, which has been the first of this paddle. Making sure all smellable items were away I then began gathering more wood to keep the fire going.

While searching for wood, I decided that perhaps I might need a weapon. I fashioned a spear by duct taping a tent stake to the end of the paddle. Like this will help in a fight but at least it is something.

This year while hiking the Appalachian Trail I saw a bear in camp close to morning and was able to chase him off. In that case, daylight was an hour away. Now I have about eight hours.

While looking for wood I saw bear dung behind my tent along with urine and wondered had he been watching me eat dinner? There are strange noises coming from the direction of my food bag.

**Back again and it is going on 11pm. I'd love to be asleep now but how could I? Every noise might be that bear or another one or hell, a whole crew.

I've got my spear handy, logs that could be used like bats outside the tent, extra tent stakes handy, Swiss Army knife opened and within reaching distance and denatured alcohol and lighter ready to use in a pinch. This is probably all overkill but it all gives me some comfort.

It really seemed like the bear was curious. It never appeared to be on either the offensive or defensive. But the whole encounter spooked me like no other time a bear came into my view. I sure hope they go somewhere else. There is plenty of food out there for them so why would they want all the msg and preservatives in my rations?

Totally different subject but the 19 miles of the Androscoggin River I paddled today was really fun. The rapids by the camp were CL II+ and roaring. I put in this morning where I took out and picked the wet line, just left of center. Per Todd the wet line is the one where you are most likely to get wet. After watching folks kayak and canoe that set yesterday made me excited for some more white water.

It feels like I got a lesson by listening to all the guides talk about the rivers and their experiences. Most of the guides were veterans of North Waters.

There were a lot of folks there that had, like me, happened upon the place, fell in love with the paddling and befriended Todd and the gang. They come back year after year for the paddling and the fellowship. At night by the campfire, they would play music and it was really good. These folks have played together for years and compliment each other’s style effectively. They even sang tunes, “Back to the Bar Room” and “Sing Me Back Home,” by Merle Haggard!

If you would like to take a lesson, use their guide services or camp you should definitely give them a call. Once I track down the number and address I will note in an entry.

Tomorrow, I will hopefully wrap up the Ammonoosic River and make it some way up the Connecticut River for another 20+ mile day. Leaving the balance of the Connecticut River to N. Stratford, NH where I will try to find ride back to Rangeley, ME. From there its NOBO and mostly downstream to Ft. Kent, ME, baby.
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 16, 2007

2007-08-22T11:11:00.000-04:00

Ed. note - TDS has been using the terrific email device Pocketmail, so he transmits journals via cellphone every few days. So in case you're wondering why this entry is from 8/22 but dated 8/16, he writes these while he's on the trail, but we ususally get them in big batches. -rg

8-16-07.

From somewhere alongside the 3.2 mile portage from lower Richardson Lake, ME to Lake Umbagog, ME. 18.5 miles today.

Its pouring now, the lightning and thunder are in full tilt and rain is pooling at the perimeter of my rain fly. It started around 5:45pm and that is when I made my camp. No, I am not at a designated pay-for tent site on privately owned land. Thank God, I did not make it to Lake Umbagog, NH today, for their tent sites require a 3 day advance reservation.

Oh well such is life.

Mount Washington, NH in the White Mountains was visible today. It would have been awesome to be up there with clear skies and no rain. In fact, today I saw more of Mt. Washington then when I hiked over back in 2005. Again, the views were spectacular today.

Yesterday I noticed 4 loons hanging out in the lake. Maybe they were hunting food as a group because one of them was always on guard duty while the others submerged their heads or dived. It would have been great to have gotten closer. Today a lone loon lifted itself from the water, stretched and flapped its wings. How graceful and to see those wings spanned.

Also today I observed a seagull following right behind a loon. Almost like the seagull was trying to pick a fight. Pretty funny. Ol' loony kept diving and breaching and the seagull just kept following, never getting more than 10 ft behind.

Dinner is cooking now. Stove is going in the vestibule and rain keeps splattering into the stove and putting it out. Haha. 3 times I started the stove before I figured out what was happening.The water on Lake Mooselookmeguntic, ME was smooth and very accepting of my paddle. Made very good time. Amazing how drastic changes in the surface can be and how quickly. Just a 250 yard portage around upper dam into upper Richardson Lake and the surface conditions were choppy, with at least 2 ft waves. Nothing like Lake Mooselookmeguntic just minutes earlier.Wind against me for the rest of the day. But occasionally the wind would abate.

Tough paddling but I still made it through and in pretty good time.

The rain rinsed my keen water sandals. Next time I’ll rub a little dr. bronner's hemp soap in so they get washed.

A lot of my gear smells mildewy lately. Gosh, I hope it’s the gear and not me. It’s been awhile since I saw a shower.

Teriyaki noodles with veggies tonight for dinner. Another tasty dish by Liptons/ knorrs. Add bread and water.

Added duct tape and another "back-up" paddle before hitting the water.

The red squirrels around here do not have bushy tails.

Yes I am carrying dr. bronners soap. However, I have only used it while in towns.

To NH tomorrow by way of Lake Umbagog and down the Androskoggin river.

The AT is not too far from where I paddled today and when I was in Rangeley, me yesterday there were no hikers.

Time for dinner.
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Paddling On

2007-08-18T11:39:00.000-04:00

In Errol, NH.

344 miles paddled
386 miles to go
One month on water
8 zero days
13 more days to paddle in August and 5-10 more in September for a grand total of 18-23 days.

No matter where I am at I will attempt to be on Katahdin no later than Septmbr 15 and head SOBO back to NJ/PA border at DWG.

Please feel free to stop by http://www.trailjournals.com/bivinat07and I recently posted a thread to http://www.whiteblaze.net/.

Hope all is well. Things are well here and despite some setbacks and tough portaging, windy conditions and tons of motor boats. I am really enjoying this part of the woods. However, I really can not wait to get back on the Appalachian Trail for a grande finish to something I started several years ago.

I had to buy another headlamp today. Urgh! That makes two lost this year.

lots of loons, I have seen several moose and great views of Mt Washington the other day.

Take care and hope all is well.

My cell phone is dead and I will not replace until NFCT portion is over. Email is best form of communication.

You can also reach me at: jbivin2@pocketmail.com. I can retrieve and send emails through a payphone. Thus, this may be the best way as some towns may not have internet. Please cc: my jbivin2@gmail.com addy.

Love, TDS or Jason Bivin

Rangeley, Maine

2007-08-17T18:28:00.000-04:00

8-15-07. from lake mooselookmeguntic, tenting at stony batter point, aprox 14.5 miles down from the putin at rangeley lake.

approx 310 miles, 430 left.

I got a ride from Richford, VT to Rangeley, ME so that I canoe downstream. Dale and Doug brought me this morning. We left Davis Park around 8:30am, ran some quick errands and were off for a road trip through VT, NH and ME.

We saw two moose today. The first was gigantic bull. He was walking back into the woods but turned and looked at us. he still had small and velvetty horns. man, he was large. the second a cow. it took us four hours and by arrival the rain had let up.

thanks guys! and they were off. a few minutes into prep I realized my pack was still in their trunk. oh sh1t I thought to myself. of all things to forget. immediately, 7i began to run from lakside park to main street in hopes i could catch them before driving off.

**totally different subject but did you hear Ron "Jaws" Jaworsky say "....matriculate the ball down the field..." on Monday Night Football (Den v SF preseason)? I did and I still cant believe my ears.

Dale and Dave were getting lunch when I found them. How fortunate that they had not already left town!

finally on the water at 3:45pm. Water had some waves and wind against me as i paddled West through Rangeley Lake. Bald Mountain, at 2443 feet, was my guide as i paddled west. nice campsite at stony batter point.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 14, 2007

2007-08-15T11:52:00.000-04:00

Ed. Note -- due to popular demand, the poll has been re-opened. Friday is the last day, so as they say in Chicago, vote early and vote often!
-rg

8-14-07.
from richford, vt. attempting to secure ride from here to Rangley, ME so I can do that section do1wnstream.

the morning of 8-12-07 I awoke to the sound of bacon frying and eggs cracking. Bill and Jean were making breakfast. remember, they offered me a piece of their rv site at Prouty Beach, the Southern part of Lake Memphremagog, because all the tent sites were taken. Bill, Jean and I had a nice breakfast and visit. Bill grew up right across the lake from where they were camping. we said our goodbyes and I paddled off.

Lake Memphremagog was huge and much bigger than I expected. The water was nice and cool and fairly calm. Wind out of the South but shifted and picked up as the day passed. There were TONS of motorboaters, ski-doo'ers and sailboaters on the water today, Sunday. many folks were also out in canoes and kayaks.

I crossed over to the Western shore first thing. The views In all directions were breathtaking. Mountains surrounded the lake and ridgelines in the distance were visible.
It was hot and I went through what seemed a ton of water. Sunblock slathering was how I spent rest breaks.

At the Canadian border, I phoned to report my entrance. Nobody was at Customs. They were nice and mentioned that only a few people ever enter here in a canoe.
Once across the border the lake shore homes decreased significantly in numbers.
I saw one loon today but was not able to get a great view and a picture might not have captured his likeness. I say "his" but it may have been "her".

The further North I paddled the rougher the water got, but hey if I can paddle across Lake Champlain...

Perkins Landing, Canada was where I stopped to wash my canoe, recieve a permit, filled waterb bottles and began the 5.7 mile Grand Portage to pick up the North branch of the Missisiquoi River. What work this was. The portage was over roads, not rocky tricky trails. It took 3 hrs and 40 minutes and I took 4 breaks. I might have relented and accepted a ride had one been offered but in the end I am proud that I survived.

I camped just after getting back on the river.

It stormed that evening. I got up, grabbed the rainfly and staked it down. The lightning, thunder and rain kept up for sometime. It was still storming when I fell back asleep but had stopped by morning.

With the sun out and a breeze I packed up wet and began the day hoping to make the 23 miles into Richford, VT.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 13, 2007

2007-08-15T11:50:00.000-04:00

8-13-07.

Richford, VT. Maps 1-5 completed and but for 18 miles on the Nulhegan River Map 6 is complete.

This day was a nice, swift ride downstream on the Missisiquoi River.

I stopped in the town of Mansonville for breakfast, coffee and water. What a great place for paddlers to stop. They had everything we need plus the folks were so nice and friendly.
I had a western omelet, add ham, homefries, toast and marmalade and coffee. DE-licious!
From here the river was nice and shortly I arrived at the Missisiquoi confluence. Smooth, quick water from here. An occasional island afforded me the chance to pick the side that might be deeper and faster.

A few rapids this day but the water levels were low. The last couple miles into Richford made for some scratchy paddling.

I stopped and reported back into the United States of America, at the village of East Richford, VT. The Border Patrol folks were nice and my check-in did not last long.
I got back to Richford about sunset, talked to some kids in the park who were riding bikes, put more clothes on and headed for dinner and a beer at the Ricochet Bar and Grille. Blackened Chicken strips and fries. Um, mum!

Today I met Carol and Jo at Vermont Peak Properties while looking for a ride to Rangley, ME so I can do the section downstream, from East to West or SOBO. Carol and I visited about the Appalachian Trail and NFCT.

I met Amber and Jill at the Richford House of Pizza, where they serve breakfast. They are helping with finding a ride and are also great folks.

For me to finish both trails and with time running out I have decided to attempt all remaining sections of the paddle downstream. This will require help with shuttling and such. If I can finish the paddle by September 10, get to Baxter State Park by September 15, I might have a chance to get through Maine and New Hampshire before the weather turns cold, wet and snowy. If I have to snowshoe through Vermont, well, I have the snowshoes. But I will be praying to Mother Nature for favorable weather and a mild Fall and early Winter!

What a journey this has been! I am so fortunate. It was nice to visit with HUNGUS who is taking some time off the AT to be with a friend. Good hearing from NOT YET and PACE HI POCKET and GREEN BEAN. And Thank You BRICKLAYER for the Prince song.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 11, 2007

2007-08-15T11:49:00.000-04:00

8-11-07.

from lake memphremagog, just 3.5 miles South of Canada border by water. tenting @ Prouty Beach. Town of Newport, VT.

18 miles and change today. a great day considering a paddle and my filson hat went missing. in todays last set of rapids, coming out of clyde pond, I bit the dust and hard. my canoe got beat up too. that royal-x material is the real deal!

all rapids before, I nailed. the water was fierce and the river was moving fast. water levels up.
paddling downstream on clyde river, North of Salem Lake I met some tough, rough water but stuck everything. at one point I could see a ledge coming up but did not have time or momentum to change my course so I leaned back like I was the man from snowy river, braced and paddled through it. half my canoe was airborn and I glanced back and saw that the drop was about 4 feet. man, talk about an exhilerating ride. I was yee hawing as loud as possible.
the highlight of my day was making it through the meandering boggy clyde river...with no wrong turns.

tomorrow I have about 10 miles of paddling up lake memphremagog and then a 5.3 mile portage to the North branch of the Missisiquoi. so some forty miles back to Richford, VT, downstream.

tonight I camp at Pouty beach on the lake and am right by the waters edge.
a women helped me find a replacement hat at the general store and said the hosts will find me, at Pouty beach for registration. if they dont then would this be considered stealth camping? if they stop by then I will pay the fee, if there is one. surely there is.

@@NEWSFLASH...the hosts stopped by right as I was zipping up. 22 dollars to tent but no sites were left. a nice couple Bill and Jean let me camp at their rv site.

this morning I was thinking of the stealth camping deal on this NFCT and I have not camped at a designated campsite or shelter more than 3 times this whole trip. mainly because once through the adironbacks camping is few and far between and I can not plan my days around this fact. this trail definitely needs more camping opps. how do we go about making this happen?
i am not complaining BUT gear manufacturers ought to refrain from using the words WATERPROOF or WATERTIGHT to sell their gear. when you dump your canoe or it rains all day, everything gets wet.

with over 4300 miles hiked and 300 miles paddling in the last 3 yrs I know of only 2 products that have stood up to test. Outdoor Research dry bags and a product called Dry Pak. if you think I am wrong, then prove me wrong by sending me your products. I will put them to the test.
3 portages today, .25, .25 and 1 mile.

I can not wait to see moose and hear the call of the loon. I wonder if the loon was ever considered as our national bird? A red squirell, from atop a downed tree in the river, watched me watch him today. I tried to talk to him but he never replied.

resupplied today at the local grocery store. hummus, fresh bread and some groovy asian dishes. granola bars, tobacco, and darn it I forgot olive oil.

my 2002 Playboy (Girls of the Big XII issue) got soaked along with a pound of venison. trash now.

the lake is beautiful at night and the sunset showed off some brilliant reds and purples. now, I am watching a real fireworks show. is it Canadian Independence day??

Today I sang songs Waiting For The Sun, Your Lost Little Girl and Moonlight Drive, by The Doors. Would love some black leather pants for Christmas in August!

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

August 10, 2007

2007-08-15T11:46:00.000-04:00

8-10-07.

13 miles NORTH of Island Pond, VT, by water. Headed Downstream on Clyde River back to Richford, VT.

It feels good to be back on the water. It also feels good to know where I am. This time, I made the correct turn down the very narrow right channel after the tubes. The river did open up and the paddle through the bog was neat!

I canoed right past a blue heron and was so close that the bird could have turned and lunged at me. I would have gotten pecked to death, eh. It was cool to see the birds eyes.
I left Island Pond around 2pm and made great time, about 2.5 mph which feels much better than 1mph or less.

The four nights I spent in Island Pond were relaxing and I slept alot. The town folk were friendly and made me feel at home. Clyde River Hotel was homebase during the longgggg zero days. Ethel made great coffee each morning and was always a great resource. I enjoyed hearing about the river from Danny, the owner of the hotel.

A big Thank You to Mary Jo and Gang at the Bank. They helped me out in a time of great need.
Dinner is almost finished and I am looking forward to making some miles in the near future.
The nights are noticeably cooler, which make for great sleeps. In the not so distant future I will need to switch out sleeping bags and go with ye ol Western Mountaineering 20 degree. The water is also much cooler than a week ago. I wonder if this is because of the rain or if its just where the water is?

Thanks Pace, Green Bean and Hi Pockets for sifting through boxes to find my Birth Cert and ID.
Thanks Jenn, at NFCT, for your words of encouragement at a time I needed them most!
Tomorrow I am hoping to make it into Canada which will be a 20 plus mile day. I'm gonna need a bunch of 20 milers to make it.

One more thing...Go John Daly!! Hopefully you will go all the way this weekend and win your 2nd PGA Championship. If he does, he will have won both on Oklahoma soil.

Thank you Dick Wolfe, TNT and USA for daily mini marathons of Law & Order.

I just learned that a great friend is joining the Army National Guard. Congrats and Best wishes. My thoughts and prayers will be with you and your family.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Tanned, rested, ready

2007-08-10T11:33:00.000-04:00

Greetings.

What a week! I am completely rested and ready to move forward with the paddle. Yee haw!

From here, I will head back Downstream on the Clyde River, with Richford, VT in my sights.

Directionally, this would be considered a flip flop. To go Northbound, I would have continued paddling Upstream on the Missisiquoi River from Richford, VT, to East Richford, VT (Border town) into Canada. Grand Portage a 5.3 mile portage into Lake Memphremagogg, down the Lake back into the USA to the town of Newport. Then continue Upstream on the Clyde River to where I am at now, Island Pond, VT.

For the sake of time I am choosing to flip this section, 79 miles, so that I can paddle Downstream.

Once I have made it back to Richford, VT I will try to negotiate a ride back to Island Pond, VT where I would continue North, paddling Downstream, for the moment, on the Nulhegan River. If this river is still low, I will skip the section and try to get a ride to North Stratford, NH where I can paddle Downstream on the Conneticut River, which is a bigger water way than the Clyde River or Nulhegan. From North Stratford, NH I have approximately 20 miles Downstream on the Conneticut River to the Amanoosic River where I begin paddling Upsteam again to the Androscoggin River, also upstream to Umbagog Lake, ME.

My fingers are crossed that I can make good time, and make it down the Clyde River without wrong turns or directional challenges!

I will continue paddling until around the first of September. And I have come to terms with the possibility of running out of time and not completing the entire NFCT. But I have not given up and am ready to really push the envelope. It is very important that I finish a thru hike of the Appalachian Trail this year, all 2174 miles, my way as I came up 100 miles short in 2005.

Temperatures are getting cooler at night.

I look forward to seeing again my friends on the AT. Thanks PADDY-O for your help! Thanks ROB, CARLYNN, PACE, GREEN BEAN, HI POCKETS, CROSS STITCH, BRICKLAYER, SPOONMAN, PHOENIX RISING, MOM AND DAD for all your support.
So I will be looking for folks that might be able to help with shuttling in Maine in the coming future.

Please note that I have added Pictures to the trailjournal. Please feel free to leave a comment. Thanks Rob, the blog looks AWESOME!

One more note, for future NOBO NFCT paddlers, Island Pond, VT is a great place to layover a day or two. You can get affordable lodging at Clyde River Hotel and there are many eateries and resupply opportunities within a short walk from the hotel. Plus, the Clyde River is next door.

Thanks Danny and Ethel!

Happy Trails and Be Well.
Totally Different Subject aka Jason Bivin

New Photos

2007-08-09T12:27:00.000-04:00

1. Portage Sign on the NFCT

2. St Regis's Canoe Outfitters, Sarnac Lake, NY

3. Map Room at St Regis's

4. From the Sarnac River

5. Adopt-a-Natural Resource -- NFCT

6. TDS solo canoed through these rapids

7. Hero's Welcome, North Hero, VT

8. Missiquoi Wildlife Refuge

9. More Missiquoi River

10-12 Former roadie for Lynyrd Skynyd

Sentimental Reasons, part deux

2007-08-08T16:55:00.000-04:00

I wish I could go back in time, grab TDS by the shoulders and say "Don't climb up that tree!!! Stay out of the bog!!!" - rg

good day. 8-1-07. Enosburg falls, VT. 200 miles. Tenting at lawyers landing, the put-in following a short portage around the dam.

Today I saw the first bald eagle of this trip...up close. There was no mistaking this one for, lets say, an osprey. The eagle flew right over head and I got such a great view I could see his eyes. Wow. This was about 6pm, a mile south of Enosburg falls, VT.

What a tough day! My toughest so far. Started the day off carrying my canoe upstream instead of trying to paddle through rapids. What makes this so tough is your footing. Sometimes you see your next step, other times you don't. In both cases I just tried to land each footing and to do so require that I be flexible. I was fortunate to have only landed some cuts and scrapes. You also are constantly scouting the best route, which is always the easiest. Sometimes only my ankles were submerged and other times I could be chest deep.

The water was shallow enough that I spent most of my day carrying, or towing upstream as this section of the river is rocky and even a section not considered Cl II or more was unpaddleable. Is unpaddleable a word? This was exhausting work... but much better than portaging.

I did paddle through some tough currents and could just feel my muscles building. During these times I gave it all I had and more often than not I managed forward progress.

I wonder how I smell? And if so, is the smell similar to that of the river. Because this section of the missiquoi smells so foul that I was smoking cigarettes every half hour to keep from gagging. There are a lot of cattle and hog farms around the river. I know all too well what they smell like.

Hot today. I was slathering on the sunblock to keep the evil uva and uvb sunrays away.

No haircut or shave for me since March of this year. However, I do get in a shower every now and again. I have not done laundry on the paddle and am wondering if people notice????

There was a general store and ice creamery around Sheldon Junction. Just after a bridge. The folks filled my water jugs up for me. I had a PowerAde and strawberry milkshake. This made me think of Bryan Adams song Heaven.

I met a guy named David today from Bennington, VT. He was several days from concluding a 200+ section from ME to Plattsburg, NY. We visited for what seemed an hour. It was nice to see another solo paddler. We talked gear and systems. Pace are you reading...systems. We exchanged trail tips and updates, talked about portages, etc. David will paddle back home, down to Burlington after reaching plattsburg.

I got into town, portaged then found a convenient store where I purchased PowerAde, Water, Chips, Beer, and Roast beef sandwich. Walked back to lawyers landing ate dinner then set up camp.

Tomorrow I hope to upload some recent pics to the website, hit the grocery store and post office all after breakfast and coffee, of course.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

...for Sentimental Reasons

2007-08-08T14:36:00.001-04:00

Here's what TDS wrote just a few days before he stared into the abyss. -rg

good day. saturday, 8-4-07.
10:05am. from Richford, VT. 7 miles South of the Canadian border, by water.
Not much progress over the last two days. Only 15 miles or so. Last night I tented in Davis Park, basically in the town limits of Richford. I was not planning on staying here but the weather prevented me from Canada.

A pretty good storm came down yesterday morning around 7:30am. Rain, thunder, lightning and wind made motivation to break camp difficult. So I spent the next couple hours inside my tent, dry. The storm let up and I hit the water.Only 8.5 miles yesterday and I carried the canoe upstream every bit as much as I paddled. While this is tiring work, it is part of the experience. And I am observing many characteristics of the river. It was about 10am when I started.

Around noon I decided to pull over since the thunder was only 1 second behind the incredible lightning strikes. So I got the canoe up on shore, turned her over and got underneath with all my gear. It seemed like the storm might last awhile so I added clothes for warmth and dryness...rainpants and jacket.The storm came and hit hard. Hail the size of a pea came down. The winds picked up to the point where I thought a tornado might touch down and blow all the water out of the river.

The brunt of the storm lasted an hour and the rain did not let up until 6pm. after a couple hours, soaked, I got back in the water. About half a mile from here the lightning, thunder and rain commenced. I started busting it to get to this park to try and wait it out before heading to Canada. By the time I got here, unloaded the canoe and made it to the park pavilion with gear it was around 5:30pm.

So I called it a day and headed into town in search of food and water.While walking up Main street I noticed a coin-op laundry-mat and a sign that read BAR and GRILLE. So I stopped in. pork loin sandwich with gravy fries, several beers and a good time. The Ricochet Bar had a band playing and the guys told me about the river. This was just what I needed after a day like that. Breakfast, laundry, grocery stop and I are almost ready to push off. Gear is drying, the sun is out and Canada is in my sights.Rain and potential for thunderstorms forecasted for Monday through Wednesday. Be well.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Survivor: Vermont

2007-08-07T13:11:00.000-04:00

I am having some logistic problems currently... so far approx 250-75 miles paddled.

Made it to Enosburg falls, VT., Which had been upstream since Plattsburgh, NY (the mouth of the Saranac River into Lake Champlain). Once in Enosburg the heat began to wear on me. So the next day, Thursday 8/3, I waited until 4pm to begin paddling. Only made it 7 miles. Next day, waited out hella t-storm, 3 times. Lightning, hail, high winds. Only did 8 miles into Richford, VT. Tired, weary and on edge I stayed there that night. Next day, left again upstream on the Missisiquoi. Took an hour to barely make it half mile. It took everything I had to move forward and as exhausted as I was in just an hour I did not see the likelihood that I could continue another 80 miles upstream like that.

Just so you know, the paddle has got me in the best shape I have been in since working as a guide back in 95. Little jay would definitely have his hands full with me know. My point- I ain’t no weakling. So I turned around, paddled back downstream to Richford. ps. this took less than 5 mins.

Called paddy-o. He happened to be in Rutland, VT and came up Sunday to pick me up and drove me down to Island Pond, VT so that I could paddle these 80 miles upstream through Canada.

I had 5 awesome miles paddling through this floodplain bog through a river that was about 15 ft wide at the most. Most of the time the width was less than 10 ft. Water levels low and after paddling through a set of culverts the river closed in on me. In a bog, a flat bog. So I was having to get out of the canoe and hoist it with gear over beaver dams and blowdowns every 15 feet or so. let me tell you this is hard exhausting work trying to pull nearly 100 pounds up and over while having virtually no footing because you are sunk in moose muck to your knees. This creates a suction so it’s like doing leg lifts with weights pulling out of the muck. As I paddled and pulled further downstream on this winding river the river narrowed even more.

I was bushwhacking over clumps of vegetation trying to figure out what my next move would be each time. It started to get dark and I had no idea where I was at. So I decided to start looking for a place to camp when I realized that my bag which contained passport, wallet, headlamp, tobacco and notebook was missing. earlier, once I knew that there was a possibility that either a) I was no longer on the river, or b) the low water levels made this river nothing but a bog, I pulled over, grabbed my map case and bag to go up high on a hill to view the terrain I got stuck thigh deep in the muck.

So I threw that stuff back in the canoe. By the time I got unstuck I paddled over to the other shore. Found a tree. Climbed it and noted the pond that was on the map...which made me think I was where I should have been. Instead of climbing down I fell like 15 ft. Thank God the ground was soft because I landed straightlegged. Went back across and portaged backpack and thwart bag up a hill that was more than 45 degrees and there was no trail. So bushwhacking through this dense forest with keen water sandals, shorts, well, I was black from the moosemuck, blue from the bruising that had began in earnest and red from all the blood. Got camp set up, went to sleep. No fire, no dinner, no cigarettes, no cope.

Next morning woke up sore and worried about insidious infection from bog. Covered cuts in alcohol sanitizer and Neosporin and headed out to find wallet/ passport bag. No luck. After 15 mins of scrambling through brush, through muck, etc, I decided the wisest course would be to abandon the search and find my way out. So I went back to where I camped, walked the ridgeline until I found a road and marked my way back to the canoe. Carried canoe through that brush up that hill which was me kneeling, pulling the canoe with all strength, having to wedge myself behind trees for leverage. Finally on top and no energy left I began the portage along the same ridgeline until I found the road.

Once on the road and my bearings straight against the map I had a 2 mile road walk back to island pond. Was able to talk bankers into allowing dad to wire money without photo id. Found a hotel that was cheap enough.

Now I have to decide whether to continue on the paddle. Either way from here, island pond, I have tiny boggy river 40 miles both directions. This is the toughest part of the trail per Jenn at NFCT who I have been in constant communication with since the beginning. Once in Maine, it’s mostly all downstream and through many lakes. But just getting there which is just 200 miles away is gonna be tough and tedious and timely as the water levels are so low and this water way goes through bog.

I have several more days to consider whether I continue with paddle and either 1) continue from here, or 2) flip forward to a better stretch or to get back on the at and at least finish that. Obviously, the latter would break me as I really want this paddle. This is the toughest thing I have ever attempted. And out here I am by myself. Nobody coming up behind with my hat that I left at the last trailhead, no town to get to for rest when needed. And the kicker is that this is what I wanted and I CAN do it. Being in survival type situations like I have several times, lost in these bogs, are not too bad as I can stay composed. But you lose your cigs and have to go without because of no money is probably been the toughest thing of all. My cell phone reception is touch and go.

Take care and best of luck.

Love,
Jason aka tds

Enosburg Falls

2007-08-03T08:21:00.000-04:00

good day and how are you?

8-3-07, 7am. 7 miles North of Enosburg Falls, VT. approx 16 miles South of Canadian border, by water.

Yesterday I waited out the heat, this morning I'm waiting out the rain.

The heat was oppressive yesterday. you could feel it coming on early in the morning. So I goofed off in town. I had breakfast at the local diner. they made wonderful sausage gravy and biscuits. A grocery store was on the edge of town, so I did some resupply. It was nice to be in the grocery store with all the air conditioning. A short stop at the library gave me the chance to catch up on internet stuff. I stopped by the Flying Disk for a cup of americano and met the owner Ben. we visited for an hour. He also sells records, cds and video game stuff.

On the other side of the dam (at end of portage) is Lawyers Landing, a privately owned public canoe access provided by the Lawyer family. A great place to stop for the evening.
right now it is thundering and lightning. oh yea, and raining something fierce. My tent is blowing around like the stakes don't mean a thing. The thunder and lightning are loud and close. The show started about the time I woke up. Executive decision- put up rain fly and wait it out. hopefully it wont storm all day because I'd love to be in Canada tonight, and the 16 miles will take some time.

My thoughts and prayers go out to the people and their families involved in the tragic bridge collapse in Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN.

One final thought- my Thermarest Prolite IV has a leaky valve stem. I wake up every couple of hours to reinflate. haha.

ok, one more thought, what in the world is going on with my favorite Four Horsewomen- Paris, Nicole, Britney and Lyndsey? they just need to do something that builds toughness and character, like a long distance hike or paddle. if your a publicist or agent for one of the gals and you are reading, I would be happy to offer my guiding services.

thats all folks!

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Missiquoi River

2007-08-02T07:16:00.000-04:00

7-31-07 and i hate where i am going to camp. but i did not want to paddle upstream Cl II rapids or portage around them this evening.

so i am South of the East Highgate ledges on the Missiquoi river. Enosburg Falls is approximately 16 miles North by water. there i will resupply and mail another map home. once there i will be approximately 200 miles into this 740 mile paddle.

this evening a beaver walked down out of the grass down the bank and stopped. he stopped in his tracks and looked at me with that, uh oh, I just got caught look. without much more regard he walked into the river and started to swim off. perhaps, i made to much of a stir because he slapped his flat tail against the surface and headed under. i'm not sure but maybe this alerted his friend because as soon as that tail hit the water another came tearing through the grass and to the water like lightning. both were huge and were the biggest i have ever seen. i bet they were as big as my dog Lake.

around noontime i hit the town of Swanton, VT. another nice surprise! Swanton House of Pizza made one of the best meatball sub i have had. they sliced the meatballs so you could eat without spilling meatballs. haha. i still got a ton of marinara sauce in my beard. picked up some sunblock at the local pharmacy, some tobacco at the mini mart and filled water bottles. Swanton has a nice little park and some local kids took my picture next to the stone canoe sculpture. all in all i spent three hours there.

it was hot and humid today. i definitely sweat out some weight. towards 5pm it sprinkled a bit. enough that two rainbows appeared.

two portages today- 150 yards and half mile. more tomorrow.

today i tried to sing some Jimmy Buffet. this scared off many a blue heron.

while checking out a spot for a campsite my canoe slowly began to creep away from the shore. apparently, my securing of the canoe severely lacked because when I came back the canoe had drifted about 30 feet from shore. without thinking i jumped in the water, swam to the canoe and brought her back to shore. soaking wet not 30 minutes before the end of the day. bath time.

the Missiquoi river could use a cleanup project. especially, near the town of Swanton. trash is everywhere. the water smells horrid. i picked up trash in that park but could have spent a week there picking up broken beer bottles. its too bad because the kids hang out there in the park. no bare feet...unless you are carrying a suture kit.

there needs to be a hostel or two along this canoe paddle and more camping opps. since the Adirondacks I have stealth camped every night. which is fine occasionally.
macaroni and cheese, pringles chips, venison jerky and water for dinner.
cheers

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Across the Big Lake

2007-07-31T14:45:00.000-04:00

Good day and how are you!

7-31-07. from missiquoi river, vt. i made it across lake champlain!

This morning i got up around 5:30am and left camp by 6am. so early for several reasons but mainly to get the best water to finish up Lake Champlain. the other reason, well, i stayed at Campmeeting Point at Knight State Park and overnight camping may not have been the norm.
the water was beautiful this morning and for most of the day. i would say the sunrise was also beautiful. the lake was not glass but using the word waves would be too much. how about perfect.

i made good time. the wind was not much at all and if anything was coming from the North. hugging the eastern shore of North Hero Island helped. the temperature was warm, the sun intense and humid. i drank lots of water.

within a couple hours i stopped in the lakeshore village of North Hero for coffee, powerade, tobacco and a breakfast sandwich. there was a nice general store/deli/bakery right next door to a United States Post Office. so a nice surprise for breakfast. mailed another map home and had a nice coffee break.

for lunch i breaked eight miles up at Stephenson Point in North Hero State Park. this place was excellent for a break...nice toilets, spiggot water, shady picnic tables and a fantastic view.
for lunch i ate Wheat Thins, Cheese Whiz, Venison Jerky and Granola bars.

visited with a nice couple who are currently living in Massachussets. and a nice family gave me a tuna fish sandwich that i ate most of while relaxing on the Missiquoi river.

an hour before sunset and i hear the ringing noise made by swarms of mosquitos. they are not that bad now. i have seen worse in N. Minnesota and Yosemite National Park.

there are water marks on the trees. this is a wildlife refuge with a heron rookery not too far North. blue herons are everywere. so are several types of ducks. i saw lots of fish several times today when the water, locale and conditions were right. little walley, smallmouth and perch.
right now i am 2-3 miles South of the USA/Canada aquatic border.

the weather for the week is supposed to be nice and sunny says everyone today.
while paddling, this morning after breakfast i sung two Waylon Jennings songs memorized on my car trip up North. decided to add them to kareoke list of favorites. oh yea, i have added a KISS fav-Feel My Heat. maybe i'll have to sing Jimmy Bufett songs tomorrow?

Isn't Rob doing a he11uva job?
[ed. note: obviously TDS has not yet learned that I've been lax in posting his stuff!]

More to follow. Stay tuned for my Thoughts on Tobacco.
Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Gear List

2007-07-31T14:15:00.000-04:00

FYI

CANOE: Bell Yellowstone Solo 14 ft.
PADDLE: 1 52" bent Sawyer and 1 54" aluminum paddle.
BACKPACK: Granite Gear SOLO canoe/portage, 4000 cubes.
SLEEPING BAG: Marmot Pounder 40 degree synthetic.
SLEEPING PAD: Thermarest Prolite 4.
TENT: MSR Hubba. Tyvek groundcloth.
STOVE: Etowah Outfitters Alcohol.
COOKWARE: GSI 1.5 qt pot and lexan spoon.
PFD: Astral Kapoc (Type III pfd)
SHOES: Keen water sandals.
HAT: Filson oil canvas
CLOTHES: North Face Hyvent Rainjacket, EMS rainpants, Patagonia Campilene long johns, Patagonia Down jacket, 1 pair socks, lw camp shorts, synthetic stocking cap.
STUFF SACKS and DRY BAGS:Seal Line 40 litre dry bag (packliner), Etowah Outfitter sylnylon multifunction, 2 Sea to Summit dry bags (2 ltr and 4 ltr)
WATERPROOF CONTAINERS: Pelican 1040 and 1030 and DryPak.
Camera: Sony CYBERSHOT 5 MPXL and battery charger.
Handheld Devices: Cingular cell phone and battery charger and Pocketmail.
WATER PURIFICATION:Iodine tabs
MISC: first aid kit, deet, dr. bronner soap, tobacco, rope, toothbrush, toothpaste, maps, Seal Line map case, comb, nail clippers and Swiss Army Camper knife.
TWART BAG: Granite Gear small.

In the near future I will switch out sleeping bags and go with my Western Mountaineering Alpinlite 20 degree down.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Updates via Pocketmail

2007-07-31T14:02:00.000-04:00

My apologies to TDS for not posting these sooner -- working on my final project for John Rash's excellent course on Media Planning. - rg

7-24-07
MILE: approx 113. NY.

Right now it is raining 7:15pm. camping on East side of Saranac River approx 1 mile South of where Stord Brook enters from the East.

today was fun. fun but tough and a couple times spooky.

fun because i was fortunate enough to have sucess in navigating through several rapids (CL II and CL III). man, what a serious shot of adrenaline! going down Permanent Rapids made me come alive. every turn I stuck, every near miss, every time the water opened up and let me through was exhilerating.

Permanent Rapids is a series of three rapids that get faster and tougher the further down hill the river rushed. The first of many rapids to come heading downstream on Saranac River (Adirondack Park NY,USA).

Tough as nails, the river can be at times and then others she'll open up and let you through the gates. Like the narrow rock gate that I got through in todays second set of rapids-3.2 miles South of Tefft Pond portage. I did tip my canoe several times. Once, at beginning of Permanent Rapids when I just could not keep my balance and rocked to far over and twice after Tefft Pond Falls portage when I got so inundated with water from the ledges I swamped. Each time I was alble to recover quickly. However, the last two swamps came at a price. The toll came to one new paddle, 1 Part B AquMir, a bandana, a litre water jug, some scrapes and a little pain. But what a rush!

I stopped for the day around 6pm just as the rain started. The most crucial items stayed dry.
For dinner Chili freeze dried. Delicious. Big Oatmeal Choc M&M cookie for desert.
Sunny for all of day, clouds increasd as day wore on.

Many beavers and deer out on the river as I left Saranac Lake last night.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

07-25-07
Mile 42+43+44= 129. Day 10. Saranac River, NY. 1 mile South by river to the border of Adirondack Park. Elsinore, NY is border village.

A sore TDS says hello to all! The last couple days on the Saranac have beaten my body. Portaging around some falls and more tricky runs leave my ankles scratched. Turning over and swamping a canoe has left me at the mercy of the current and undertow. Even successful, quick and efficient recoveries can be painful and leave bruises. Walking around in the river whether to stop along shore, to carry my canoe upstream or over shallow, rocky water or to recover from a swamping have been hard on my feet. The Great News- Pain is temporary and Soreness is also.
Blue sunny skies today. The sun made it hot but the humidity seemed low. As the birds begin their dusk calls I still see no cloud in the sky and am hoping for stars tonight.

I was putting in following a 1 mile portage around High Falls Dam to avoid both the dam and then CL V-VI rapids. Suddenly I heard a couple guys ask me if I was paddling the NFCT. I said yes and Ben mentioned that they had just finished. The Wisconsin Two. Ben and Jesse started on June 11, 2007 and finished yesterday, July 24, 2007. Wow! What a trip to meet them on their way back home. They did it. We visited for an hour or so. I am very greatful to have recieved some pointers, trail conditions and recomendations.

CONGRATS BEN AND JESSE- THE WISCONSIN 2. Thanks for the venison jerky!

I swamped my canoe once today at the very end of the Seperator rapids. They were way to tricky for my skills so I portaged around but put in short of the trail end. I was doing fine, then I got turned backwards. No problem, so as I am looking backwards over my shoulder I hit one shoot on the money and got the momentum to begin turning myself back downsteam and then a rock prohibited me from making the full swing. And then the dream was over. The canoe full of water turned upside down and I exited stage left to find myself under water. Not for any time though and the water was deep enough that I kind of surfed downstream clutching my canoe, paddles, waterjug and was shortly sidelined to unswamp.

Tomorrow, there are several portages and some more rapids before I reach Plattsburg, NY. From where I camp to Plattsburg is approximately 19 miles.

Thinking about peanut butter next resupply...hate to carry the weight but need the protein and calories. Maybe even some bagels.

Thanks Dave. You were right on about the paddles.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

7-29-2007

From plattsburgh, ny I hit the waters after two days off. I definitely needed a rest. It turned out that the break gave me a chance to wait out some thunderstorms and rain.

The econolodge was my home for several days. it was a nice facility with all the amenities you would not expect at an economy class hotel like indoor/outdoor pool, continental breakfast, internet, great access to resteraunts and shopping.

I was anxious to go this morning with good weather and wind out of the North. So from Plattsburgh Boat Basin I headed out to tackle Lake Champlain.

The water was calm for the most part. One to three feet waves were not too bad and the wind really did not seem to pick up until late afternoon. The toughest part of the day was maneuvering around the many boats and ferrys that were going by and coming towards. The ferrys were only travelling to and from Cumberland Head and Grand Isle. This just happened to be where I crossed too. I made it and enjoyed all the sailboats.

From Grand Isle I hugged the shore and paddled North reaching Sisters Islands in good time and then turned East into The Gut. I am currently at Knight Point State Park and hope to stealth camp here.

The roughest water today was the last mile or so heading North along the shore of Grand Isle. Mainly I paddled into the waves at a 45 degree angle and it worked safely. In this stretched I often was torqued from wakes, wind and reverberting waves from crashing into the shore.
My canoe handled like a pro today and hopefully tomorrow will bring more mild weather so that we will stay dry.

Tonight for dinner...Mac and Cheese or Asian Sesame Lipton/Knorr noodles or stew?

Stay tuned.

The Wisconsin 2 gave me several pounds of venison jerky and it is awesome. I am loving it.

Happy Trails,
Totally Different Subject

Canoe Mile 85.5

2007-07-23T14:48:00.000-04:00

Greetings. I hope that you are all well.Total Mileage: 85.5.

My last post was from the great hamlet of Long Lake. This was a great place to take care of all the errands one must accomplish while in town. For instance, if you are not mail dropping food (which I am not) then you need to resupply. Then, if not first, you have got to hit a diner, resteraunt or bar for a cooked meal. Oh yea, if you are sending or receiving mail, then a post office is a must. And finally, the outfitters. An outfitter is my favorite of all the town tasks. Well, maybe tied with hot meals.

In Long Lake, NY I was able to do all of these chores. The town was very paddler friendly with all the necessities. Oh yea, the folks there were very nice.

Currently, I am in Saranac Lake, the town, just 85 miles up the trail. I arrived last evening
(7/22) around 5pm. This community is larger than Inlet or Long Lake. When you paddle into town you arrive at a docking area just shy of Main Street where a beautiful riverwalk begins. The size of this town, while larger than the others, makes running the errands very paddler friendly. There are several bars here, numerous resteraunts, a couple of outfitters, library, post office and general stores along with a ton of shops.

In New York you are charged for refills on Coke. What a racket this is. I mean, come on, don't they already make enough profit on the markup of the soda? I just had lunch at an Italian resteraunt here. Very nice atmosphere. But a 10 ounce Coke filled to the rim with ice (another great trick) for $1.50. Add another $1.50 for a refill that they do not tell you about. Lunch was mediocre at best. And I was the only person in the place at noontime. I wonder why? Enough.
With the Ironman Marathon being this past weekend lodging was impossible and frankly there were not many good stealth camping spots. So I left my canoe and pack at the Police Station (THANKS GUYS!!) figuring this would be the safest place and walked around considering my options. I stumbled across an outfitter-St. Regis Canoe Outfitters and the staff were barbequing in the back for a staff meeting. I met Brian, Martina and Dave Cilley (the Owner) and talked to them. They were generous enough to allow me to sleep on their back porch and I even got to shower there this morning. My first shower since last weekend. My clothes still smell like lake water though.

You have to stop by St Regis Canoe Outfitters. They are great people. They are extremely knowledgeable about the water here in NY and abroad. Plus, they have one of the most extensive selection of gear necessary for paddling and or hiking. They even carry Granite Gear packs. Yee Haw! They will rent you a canoe for the day, for the week. They shuttle folks to water destinations. Dave is abit of a map junkie and he spent an hour this morning going over maps of the upcoming terrain with me. Their business front is conveniently located on the river, which goes through town. You can reach them at 518-891-1838 and anyone of the staff will fix you right up!

On 7/19/07, I pushed off from the town of Long Lake, which also was the day I arrived. I only paddled for another couple of miles and camped on a point just North of Hidden Cove Lean-To. From my camp I could see Round Island. It rained pretty much the whole time I was in town and it did not cease once I got on the water. The wind seemed to be blowing against me and the rain seemed to come at an angle. This day ended around 4pm. This was nice as it gave my sore, aching muscles a chance to recover. For dinner, I enjoyed Lipton noodles, barbeque chip crumbs and a lemonade mix that my sister, Amy sent along with a ton of awesome energy bars. Awesome is not the name brand, awesome is how they tasted. Thanks Sis! A good night sleep was ahead and you know the rain is never awful when you are dry and in for the day.
On the morning of the 20th, I awoke to sun, clear skies and warmth. The wind was blowing enough that I was able to dry out tent, tent fly, backpack and rainjacket. This took some time and it was 9:30am before I hit the water. Once back in the water paddling North up Long Lake the water was choppy and the wind against me. About 30 minutes or so into the day, the clouds won over the sky and let go some more much needed rain. For lunch, I stopped at Island House Lean-To and waited out several 30 minute rain sessions. At intermission, a 2 man canoe team paddled by and asked how I was enjoying the weather. I replied, "Loving It!". Once the canoe had gotten away, the rain began again. Eventually, I thought that the rain would not stop today and that Fort Kent, ME was not getting any closer as I waited.

From the Northern most part of Long Lake I entered the Raquette River. The first part of this paddle was along and through a winding channel where several brooks and rivers entered from the East. Along this paddle I noticed ducks with their young, geese with their young, pairs of blue herons and even an otter. I portaged around Raquette Falls which happened to be 1.3 miles in length. This was the first portage that reminded me of the ones I traversed in Minnesota's Boundary Waters and Southern Ontario's Quetico Provential park. Up and down, very rocky, slick and in the woods. Did I mention that it was raining? It was slower going once I got south of the falls and I was getting colder so the hunt for a campsite ensued. However, today I really, really wanted to stay in a lean-to instead of in a tent. I found it just South of Stony Creek. Palmer Brook lean-to hovered above the water with a nice view of the river from above. There was plenty of tenting areas here but nobody was in the shelter so I sat up the body of my tent so that I could sleep without the bugs. About ten guys from Tupper Lake area showed up for their annual get together/ party. And it was a party. They may have had around 300 cans of beer and great food. We all hung out and had a great time laughing, telling jokes, eating, etc. The rain stopped around 8pm.

No rain on the morning of the 21st! Blue skies, no humidity and few clouds. A great day for a paddle! Around 9am I hit the water and made excellent forward progress...until I turned off, upstream from the Raquette River into Stony Creek. Have you ever seen the movie DELIVERANCE? You know, the one with Burt Reynolds and Ned Beatty, oh yea and Jon Voit? We watched this movie while I was training to be a canoe guide so that we would see what happens in the wild when you lose your head. Well, the map says that this section, Stony Creek, was tricky and when in doubt one should always go Left. Well, I did so but for one time and wound up paddling upstream into Ampersand Brook. While paddling up stream, and thank God I had a paddle, the current made it so that I could no longer make any forward progress. So I thought that this is just the part of the trip where I get out and portage or line. So I carried my canoe upstream until I could walk no longer. Then I tried to scout a route to portage and did so for a half mile before I could no longer bushwack. My legs got pretty scraped up during this ordeal. So after about 3.5 hours and not arriving at the Stony Creek Ponds which were 3.5 North of the turnoff, and studying the map I determined that the best course of action was to proceed back the way I came to the point where I went Right instead of Left. I eventually got there and got into Stony Creek Pond exhausted and thinking of another short day. By the time I arrived at the INDIAN CARRY, portage trail on the North part of Stony Creek Pond, I decided to call it a day and do the portage the following day. I found a beautiful campsite on a point just South of the portage. Great views from all directions and again the loons sang me to sleep. No roosters here, just loons. Loons do calls in the morning as well.

Oh yea, back to the Stony Creek snafu. Once paddling upstream on Ampersand Brook, there were at least five instances where trees had fallen across the brook. This meant that I had to portage or carry around. This was exhausting work.

July 22 and approximately 17 miles to Long Lake, NY. No rain and nice weather all day. It did get hot and the sun was intense but hey, I'll take it. Started the morning later, again around 9:30am as it was very cool, and did the 1.1 mile portage. The yolk pads were killing me and it was because the nuts were not tightened so getting to town also meant that I might borrow a crescent wrench for the tightening. Believe me, I am not complaining as there are not a whole lot of things I would rather be doing. Paddling with Paris Hilton is just one of the few things. It would be so cool to get the straight dope on Hillary, Nicole, Lindsey, Britney and gang from the horses mouth. Not that Paris has a horses mouth! Oh me, where is a US Weekly mag when you need one the most?

Upon completing the portage I arrived upon Upper Saranac Lake. The water was abit choppy and this was worsened by the mass of motorboaters. I can never say motorboater without thinking of Vince Vaughn in The Wedding Crashers. The views surrounding the Saranac Lakes were spectacular and really made me feel how small I was in comparison. I LOVE THE ADIRONDACKS!!! I saw tons of birds and even a beaver swimming by. I tried to get the beavers attention by slapping the flat of my paddle blade on the water. He, or she, paid no attention to me and went on about their business. Another .5 mile portage and I was in Middle Saranac Lake where the wind picked up a notch. Nice islands dot this lake and they all seemed like they would be ideal campsites. Much of the shoreline in these lakes are privately owned. And obviously you can not camp there, unless invited. I have not been invited yet. Through the Saranac River from Middle Saranac to Lower Saranac. Another nice relaxing downstream paddle through the meandering river. I ran a very short rapid avoiding going through the Upper Locks. It was cool to see how the locks worked. The Park installed these locks years ago to allow boat passage from lake to lake.

Around the islands back South past the Saranac Lakes Islands Campground Headquarters and into Oseetah Lake. This was one of my favorite so far as it was completely surrounded by mountains. No bald eagle sitings yet, but this lake is known to be home to several. Once I reached the Lower Locks and Dam at the Southern mouth of Oseetah lake I actually went through the locks. It was kind of weird to be in the canoe as the water level dropped six feet. The guy there was cool and we visited abit.

From Oseetah Lake I paddled North through winding channels until I reached the great town of Saranac Lake. This day, a wood duck flew over head, not fifteen feet overhead and it was so beautiful to see the entire body in flight. They get their bodies straight as an arrow and don't look back.

All in all, I have thoroughly enjoyed this phase of my 2007 trip. It feels great to be back on the water. The canoe I am using, a Bell Yelowstone Solo, has been wonderful and each day I gain more confidence in both our abilities. The gear that I have chosen is working out and hopefully, I will not have to purchase any more gear. Yea right.

Again, thanks so much to Rob, up in Minnesota. Thanks Steve and gang at Piragis Outfitters up in Ely, MN. You guys at Mountain Man Outfitters in Old Forge, NY were awesome. Congrats Sara on your new job with Keen. You know, how I feel about KEEN-they rock! Dave Cilley and the gang at St Regis Canoe Outfitters in Saranac Lake, NY are incredible and what an extensive line of gear! Thanks Dave for your help and your time! Thanks to everyone else who have helped along the way. This would not be possible without a great support network.
Granite Gear, Bell, Outdoor Research, Sawyer, Leki, Etowah Outfitters, NorthFace, Keen...THANKS for making GREAT products. And if you are reading this and ever have a question to ask about one of the abovementioned companies, please feel free to ask in an email. I'll talk gear until the cows come home.

Up next, the Saranac River to Plattsburg, NY where I will begin a 33 mile paddle across Lake Champlain, which incidentally is our countrys 6th largest lake.
Thanks for the emails and happy trails and be well.

Jason aka Totally Different Subject.
Totally Different Subject

Canoe Trail - Mile 43.5

2007-07-19T16:14:00.000-04:00

Miles: 43.5.

Good morning. It's raining here in the hamlet of Long Lake, NY. But that is just fine. The water is needed in this part of the country and I am dry and fed. A great, home cooked breakfast was in store this morning. Pankakes, eggs, sausauge and coffee. Mmm!

Last night I stayed in the southern part of Long Lake on State-owned land, where we can camp as long as we are 150 yards from water. The mosquitoes, black flies, horse flies and no-seeums made my decision to call it an early evening. They are bad now. However, I have 99% DEET and long pants and a rain jacket.

Monday evening around 5pm'ish, July 16,2007, I pushed off from Old Forge, NY. What a great feeling to be at the beginning of a new adventure, a place where I have never been. Given the lateness of the day and the fact that I do not, yet, feel comfortable paddling at night, I canoed in several miles and camped on an island. Islands often are wonderful places to camp. You get any breeze available and wind is what shoo's those antagonistic insects on their way. That night, the breeze made things cooler which always equates to better sleeps. As bedtime neared, the loons began their evening symphony. What a wonderful thing to hear as you drift off to sleep.

Tuesday morning was warm and clear. I met a guy named Matt, who had been coming to the Adirondacks for years to visit his grandparents' camp on the Second Lake of the Fulton Lake chain. We visited and then both parted. We may cross paths again one day as we both enjoy many of the same outdoor endeavours plus he lives in Washington state. Before, it was warm and clear, however, a fog hovered over the lake. I slept in. But the fog cleared and the sun appeared. There was little to no wind today, which always make paddling easier.

I made my way up the Fulton Lake chain, passing through Third, Fourth lakes. At the end of Fourth Lake was the smaill town of Inlet. I parked the canoe and walked into town for some groceries. Inlet was a nice little town. But the folks there were a little leary of this bearded long haired country boy. Hahahaha. The grocery store there made one heckuva great roast beef sandwich. Back to the lake and the first portage awaited. Not bad. Half a mile into Fifth lake, which really could have been tagged a pond. A nice portage trail and I was able to do the portage in one carry. A canoe on my shoulders, a pack on my back, a paddle in one hand and holding the canoe with the other. It was good to have a canoe back on my shoulders...

Into Sixth Lake and Seventh lake. At times a loon would appear from nowhere in the water. I would stop to watch them. These birds are large and beautiful. There were Canadian geese and wood ducks both with their young. The second portage of the day was a little longer, a mile and went through the Eigth Lake State campground. I would have stayed but wanted to make it to Raquette Lake to take advantage of a non windy day. It has been said that this lake can get pretty brutal with wind. Some have been windbound for days and others would begin their paddle across this big lake early, like around 4am.

As the day wore on, I began to tire. You know, the breaking down of muscles is starting over for me now. Through Eighth Lake and one more portage to Browns Tract Inlet. This portage was abit longer - 1.3 miles and the last of the portage was on bog logs or bog boards. It was fun trying to balance everything up top while the boards would sink into the bog under feet. This was an awesome stretch of paddling, winding through this boggy water way. It eventually worked into Raquette Lake. I went through the inlet slowly and noticed blue herons, otters, ducks, geese and INSECTS. Paddling near the water lillies were nice and there was plenty of wild rice and cat tails on the edges. There were five beaver dams I crossed on Browns Tract Inlet and I swamped the canoe pulling my canoe over the first dam. So, does that really count as I was not yet in the boat??? A short paddle to Big Island, once I reached Raquette lake, and my day was over. There were several lean to's in the area I had stopped. I found one, away from the other campers and set up my tent below the shelter.

At 4am the rain started. I know because I was up for the mid morning bathroom break. So I put the rainfly on my tent and went back to sleep. When I woke up around 8:30am the rain was still coming down. I broke camp and hung out in the shelter until 9:30am, when I pushed off in the rain. But by then it was a light, warm rain. Navigating this big lake in that weather was not difficult at all and before I knew it I was rounding Bluff Point, where it can really get windy. Not windy at all. Thank you!

A short portage awaited me at the end of Forked Lake. Then a 1.3 mile portage took me around Raquette Falls. This portage was long and painful. Nothing that I won't get used to but now instead of carrying a 30lb pack on my back, when hiking, vis-a-vis, portaging, I am carrying over half of my body weight. The canoe with hardware weighs around 47 lbs and my pack weighs 42 pounds. That is over half my body weight. Last time checked, my weight was 167. In any case and for all my whining, the portages never last all day. And to be out here in the Adirondacks and paddling the width of the park is a blessing.

Back in the water for three miles before having to portage .2 around Buttermilk Falls. What a beautiful area...this would be a great place for a zero day. Then a short paddle before we are promted to portage another half mile or so around what the sign indicated as "Dangerous Rapids Ahead...". I looked over the next distance between where I docked and where I would come out, at the mouth of Long Lake and decided two portages was enough for that day and some moving water is what the doctor ordered. However, the water levels were low and I beat the hell out of the bottom of my canoe. Fortunately, I did not swamp the canoe and learned that with a little water in the canoe the tilt factor decreases. It was fun and in some places I really got to move! In other places I was getting out to walk over rocks. Fun, fun, fun and no portage. I only paddled another mile and a half or so to an area on the Northside of Long Lake. On state land I found a place suitable for sleep and eat.

This morning I awoke early and hung out in the tent while I stretched sore muscles. And they were sore! I started earlier this morning than usual, 8:30am and arrived at the boat lauch at Long Lake, NY around 10:30am. There I met a group that was just coming off the water, stowed my canoe and gear and headed for town with groceries and breakfast on my mind. A great breakfast adn a dry library to send updates!

More to come later. We have to share these public pcs.

Quickly, thanks Piragis Outfitters, Mountainman Outfitters, Granite Gear, Bell, Sawyer. Thanks NFCT!

Thanks Rob and everyone else.

Love and Happy Trails,
Jason Bivin aka Totally Different Subject

More Photos from NFCT!

2007-07-19T15:17:00.000-04:00

Anchors Away

2007-07-17T15:53:00.000-04:00

I just received a call from TDS yesterday -- he had paddled in a few miles and was excited about the beginning of this part of his adventure!

The good folks at Mountain Man Outfitters dropped him off at the Western terminus of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail at Old Forge, NY.

He's using his new Pocketmail handheld, so hopefully, we'll be getting more regular updates. Ain't technology great?

-rg

2007-07-13T14:16:00.001-04:00

NOTE: Don't forget to scroll down for lots of pics from the trail!

Greetings friends, romans, countrymen...

Now for Phase II, the paddle. All updates moving forward, for a month or so, shall be about my paddle of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.

So, I hiked from Springer Mountain, GA to Deleware Water Gap, PA from March 18,2007 to July 6, 2007. Appalachian Trail Miles: 1279.2. On my way in to the DWG, I ran into a friend- SnackBreak, who I had not seen since Bears Den Hostel in VA. We visited and hiked abit together before arriving at the great Church of the Mountain Hiker Hostel. There I cleaned and headed for a burger and beer at the Sycamore Grille with Bird Dog, Snack Break and newly made friend Archy. Archy spends more than half of his time living in New Zealand but was visiting family in the New Jersey area. He and SnackBreak had known each other for some time and he showed up on the Appalachian Trail to surprise her. We had a great time drinnking, eating and visiting. Dick Wizzard eventually showed up.

The following day, Archy drove me to Newark, NJ so that I could catch a bus ride down to Amicalola Falls, GA. My truck was there and I needed it to get back up to NY. How about the following as a base for a Country Western tune...A 20 hour busride, a $200 cab ride, a 12 mile hitch and a 10 mile road walk. You can probably figure the details but I am happy to explain. A 20 hour bus ride to Atlanta, GA, no biggie right? A cab ride from downtown GA to somewhere 30 miles from Amicalola Falls, GA at a cost of $198.00 sounds excessive, right? Well, had the cabbie gotten me to my truck, perhaps the cost would have been justified. I asked the cabbie to just drop me off so that I could walk the rest of the way, or hitch. But after paying the cab driver I was able to flag down a Pickens Country, GA Sheriff who informed me that I was nearly 30 miles from Amicalola Falls. He gave me a ride to the Pickens County border where I got out and walked the road to Amicalola Falls...without water, or even a jug to hold water. Who thought I'd be hiking? But I thought, Party On, and I made it.

Party On is a phrase Cody Lundin uses in his book, 98.6 Degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive! Cody suggests that this phrase, "...is the most optimistic statement in the world, one in which there is no opposite, no opposing force. It is the ultimate attitude adjuster and contains great power if used with conviction." So this phrase will forever keep me going when the going gets tough.

The great staff at Amicalola Falls, GA greeted me and got me on my way. Thanks folks! So here is where the beginning of Phase II began. On the way up there I got a call from my great friend, White Crow, who was charging his phone battery at the truckstop just North of Duncannon, PA, off of US322/22. White Crow and I had one more laugh, one more gripe and several more beers before he took off from the trail North of Duncannon. It was great seeing White Crow again and knowing that I will likely see him again on the AT before my journey has concluded.

It took several days to arrive in upstate NY and as much time to adjust to the highways, masses of people, WalMarts, shopping malls and traffic jams. I spent a night camped in the Adirondack Park before heading across the border to Vermont. What a beautiful drive! This park is amazing and I feel so fortunate to be gearing up for a paddle that will take me the width of this park from West to East. Lake Champlain is our 6th largest lake and guess what, I will be crossing this beast in the near future on my way to Vermont. Finally, I arrived in Waitsfield, Vermont, home of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail organization. Jen, Sandy and Kate were there holding down the fort and we had a blast visiting and getting to know each other. The NFCT is a class act and model organization. Best of luck with your vision! Jen had all the answers to all of my questions and I feel that the time we shared was of the highest quality.

From Waitsfield, VT, a tired hiker/driver/paddler, set out for the final leg of this road trip to Old Forge, NY. On my way, I spent one more night in the Adirondacks, car camping. Golden Beach public area was the locale and during the night I heard the greatest outdoors noise - the call of loons. I also fell asleep to the sounds of waves crashing against the shore.

The temperatures are colder up here. And it has rained some everyday in the last three.
Steve and gang at Piragis Outfitters, in Ely, MN have been extremely helpful in providing advice and products for this trip. They even had my canoe and backpack shipped to an outfitter in Old Forge, NY- Mountainman Outfitters. The staff here at Mountainman Outfitters has made this final part much easier and I appreciate them holding my canoe. They also have lots of goodies that gearheads like myself should avoid until I win the Powerball. Just kidding, everything I have purchased has and will be needed.

Yesterday, I took my Bell Yellowstone Solo canoe for a ride. I put in at the Old Forge Pond and paddled to an island campsite between the First and Second Lakes of the Fulton Lake chain. Here I had lunch and dried out from an intended swamping of the canoe. I swamped the canoe while testing how far over I could lean. Thanks to a nearby dock, I pulled the canoe up and drained her before loading everything back up and pushing off. The whole trip was 5 miles and it felt great to be back on the water in a canoe.

Today, I am finalizing purchases, waiting for packages and just killing some time. I am hoping that Paris Hilton will hear about this adventure and contact me for a ride up North. hahaha.
I will be carrying a Granite Gear SOLO canoe/duluth pack on this trip. Steve Piragis of Piragis Outfitters, Ely, MN suggested he would not carry anything else. Heck, I did not even need to hear this as I know those boys up in Two Harbors, MN know how to make GREAT packs. I have carried a Granite Gear Nimbus Ozone pack over the last two hiking seasons. Thus far, I have approximately 2200 miles and she is poised for another. However, I am excited to see (and own) the 2008 updated Nimbus Ozone. The body is supposed to be comprised of a heavier nylon fabric then currently used. Yee Haw....do I really have to wait until 2008? How about Christmas 2007.

A sponsor has supplied me with a Pocketmail device. And hopefully this wonderful piece of technology will afford me a chance to keep you all updated with much greater frequency. Stay tuned.

Thanks to all those who have offered encouragement and support. Without you great people these types of adventures would be extremely difficult. Thanks Leki, Granite Gear, Bell, Sawyer, Etowah Outfitters, Keen and Outdoor Research.

Again, thanks so much to my man up North- Rob Gore. He has been managing my blog and doing a heckuva job, don't you think? I do. Despite being a Father, a Husband with a Full Time job and a full courseload for Graduate School, he still finds time to work the blog. THANKS!

Happy Birthday to my little Sis, Lori Belle! Thanks for your help too!

Happy Trails and Stay Tuned

Jason Bivin aka TDS.

Totally Different Subject

Photos, May-July (yes, that's really TDS)

2007-07-13T13:53:00.000-04:00

Sneak Preview

2007-07-11T13:37:00.000-04:00

TDS is currently in transit from getting his truck in Georgia. He's bringing it up to New York in preparation for his solo thru-paddle of the NFCT.

Apparently, his adventures are not limited to the trail. Getting the truck involved the following:

A 20-hour Greyhound bus ride
A VERY expensive taxi
Hitching
Riding in a Sheriff's car
A twelve-mile road hike

Can't wait to hear the details!

-rg

From July 4th / 5th

2007-07-11T13:34:00.000-04:00

Happy Fourth of July. I hope you are all well. Mile: 1263.

On the trail, I have made it to Wind Gap, PA, just off of State Highway PA33. Wind Gap is a nice little town with all the necessary hiker services. From here I am approximately 16 miles South of Deleware Water Gap, PA which is the border of PA and NJ.

My sister picked me up and we spent the Fourth of July in Philadelphia. Hall and Oates played a free show, in the rain, at the Art Museum. They were great and played all their songs we love. It was good seeing my sister and the city.

In my last installment, I was at Pine Grove Furnace State Park, 6/21. Halfway. Sad to say it but I did not do the half gallon (of ice cream) challenge. I had a nice time at the park and stayed in the Ironmasters Mansion Hostel, a large brick building dating back to colonial times. From here later the next morning I headed off with thoughts of Duncannon and the Doyle bouncing through my head. A short day of hiking out of Pine Grove Furnace gave me a chance to get a good nights sleep.

I woke up early the next morning with 34.6 miles to Duncannon and figured I would get close and head into Duncannon 6/24 for a nero. But I was hiking well, the terrain was not tough, the temperature was primo and the miles just went by so quickly that by mid morning I was considering going all the way into Duncannon. I started that morning by 6am and by 9am I was having a lunch in Boiling Springs, PA, the ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional Office. After replinishing water bottles I headed out with 25'ish miles to Duncannon. Great stretches for big miles and great breezy hiking conditions made it possible for me to walk into Duncannon that evening, just before dark. This was my biggest mile day ever and I was not dead. A zero day in Duncannon and then I was off to Port Clinton.

It was nice to visit with Vickey of the Doyle. Trail Angel Mary cooked breakfast for us hikers and it was great visiting with her. One more lunch on my way out of town at the Riviera Bar. A short day out of town and the weather started to heat up. As the temperature heated up I started noticing less wildlife. As of late, it seems like I only see birds, bugs, chipmunks and squirrels. The trail in many places is completely grown up over the trail with vines and shrubs and floor covering. You get a cooling effect under the canopy but when it is hot and there is not a great breeze, it gets muggy. Since alot of the hiking in PA is on a ridge, water is fewer and farther between. Some of the springs are starting to dry up. So I have been carrying more water and when a spring is found I spend more time there drinking water before hiking North. Thanks to all the folks who have been leaving water at road crossings and such! I got to Port Clinton, PA on Friday, 6/29/2007 (Mile: 1202). There is not much here in terms of hiker services but a Church in town owns a pavillion and park area. They let hikers stay there. The pavillion is big and nice and cool. Many people stop by to say hello, drop off water or to see if they can assist in any way. Now there is an outfitter, Ye Old Backpacker, 6 miles (by road) North of Port Clinton, PA in a town called Orwigsburg, PA. Owners Steve and Tammy offer a free bunk room for hikers. They are great and I wish them success. The next day I ran into Bag O Trix at the pavillion and decided to stay there for a visit. We caught up and it was nice to see an old friend. The 3C's resteraunt, just a half mile up from the pavillion, serves one heckuva excellent breakfast. In fact, I am ready to say they are tied for Best Breakfast with the grill in Hot Springs, NC. Great sausage pattys. I did close to 20 miles coming out of Port Clinton to a water source, Dans Spring. The next morning I awoke and began early because there were approximately 20 miles between my starting point and Palmerton, PA. Palmerton is a great little town with all the hiker services. From Palmerton, PA we climb straight up an exposed mountain. I began this climb right before sunset and it was beautiful. The scramble up the rocks has recently been featured in an issue of Backpacker magazine. I camped on top and got a great view of the sunset while cooking dinner. The sun came up early the next morning and with nothing to block it I relented and got rolling, despite being a bit sore. The rocks wear on you after awhile. The next day had 18 miles in store to Wind Gap. I was late and underestimated the drain on mph that the rocks would have. I barely did 2 mph but got there and my sister, Lori, was there with Gatorade and water.

Today, 7/5/07, I will be shuttled back to the AT, Wind Gap. I will hike in a bit, and then roll into Deleware Water Gap, PA. There is a great hostel there- Church on the Mountain. They allow hikers to stay there. I may stay or may keep going. Billville is hosting a hiker feed in Duncannon, PA and I suppose if somebody were going to be shuttling hikers back, I could have my arm twisted. It would be great to see White Crow, Not Yet, Mr Easy and all other hikers. Plus, I heard Paddy-O and Matthew-sky is there too.

My canoe that I recently purchased from Piragis Northwoods Co. (http://www.piragis.com/) in Ely, MN has been delivered to Old Forge, NY. The folks at the Northern Forest Canoe Trail Organization had arranged to have it stowed at the local outfitters. Thanks everyone!
So I am ready to begin the second phase of this years adventure- the Paddle. A 740 mile traverse from Old Forge, NY to Fort Kent, ME following the Native American waterway. Before I can go, however, I must get back to Amiacola Falls, GA to pick up my vehicle to drive back to NY.

THANK YOU:Piragis, Leki, Outdoor Research, Etowah Outfitters, New Balance, Granite Gear. Your gear is great!

THANK YOU: Mom, Dad, Rob, Ricky, Amy, Lori and everyone else who is making this trip possible and better.

Happy Trails and be well.
Jason aka TDS
Totally Different Subject

Breezing through PA

2007-06-26T11:44:00.000-04:00

TDS is moving through Pennsylvania so fast, he hasn't had time to stop and update his journal or blog. Apparently, the weather has been cooler and drier, making for better hiking.

After completing a mind-numbing 34-mile day on Friday 6/22, TDS arrived at the landmark Doyle Hotel in Dunncannon for some well deserved rest. In case you're not familiar with The Doyle, it's an old Anheuser-Busch hotel that has never gone through any kind of rennovation in its 100 or so years. The Doyle's clientelle is almost exclusively AT hikers. It's a little rough around the edges, but it's a wonderful and fun place to stay on the AT.

More good news: TDS has acquired a Bell Yellowstone canoe from an outfitter in Ely, MN. Get this - they're shipping it to NY, where TDS will pick it up and start canoeing!

Hopefully, he'll be able to share some thoughts and reflections with us before embarking on the NFCT part of his journey!

-rg

Mason Dixon Line

2007-06-19T16:26:00.000-04:00

TDS has just left a message that after putting in two 20+ mile days in excessive heat, he has arrived at Pen-Mar park on the border of Pennsylvania and Maryland. This is also where the AT crosses the Mason-Dixon line.

Even though Maryland is one of the easier sections of the AT, it is still an impressive accomplishment. Marathon runners will do 26 miles in one day, but it's usually a pretty flat run.

In crossing Maryland, the total "ups" are something on the order of 5000', so it gives you an idea of the degree of fitness required.

Some great topo's of the hike through Maryland can be found here, if you're into that kind of thing.

Notably, this Thursday is National Nude Hiking Day. I believe TDS will be on a 18 mile flat stretch of PA that's mostly on rural farm roads, so it'll be interesting to hear if he partakes in the festivities.

-rg

Harper's Ferry, West Virginia

2007-06-18T07:04:00.000-04:00

Hello friends and the occasional reader.

From the Hostel at Harpers Ferry I type to let you know that I have officially reached the pychological half way point- Harpers Ferry, WV, mile: 1009. The real half way point is around Pine Grove Furnace state park. A great place. I remember it well. Pace realizing he had giardia and I walked out in a downpour to wake up the next morning with lymes. But Pine Grove here I come!

It is nice crossing a state line. I have been in Virginia since May 5th'ish. West Virginia today, Maryland tomorrow and Pennsylvania up the road. Some folks don't look forward to Pennsylvania. I do. No huge climbs, lots of great people, a few rocks, some great state parks and one state closer.

The roller coaster was real fun. Really. Thanks, I needed that.

My favorite hostel on the trail- Bears Den Hostel was a great, great success. Queen Diva was in the house and good times were had by all. We got to visit into the evening, past hikers midnight. This hostels' construction is of stone and was built in the 1930's as a summer home. It looks like a castle and sits on a nice estate just off the Appalachian Trail. While this hostel hosts hikers they also take many other guests who use cottages, campsites or the grounds. It was so great to see and catch up with Queen Diva. We had so much fun at Circuit Riders expense. haha.

Number 314. The number I was given at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy was 314. I was hoping for 356 1/2. I had no idea how many other hikers are in front of my until I began looking through this years hiker atc photos. I pulled the 2005 book out and reminisced as the faces of yesteryear reappeared. My picture in 2005 was not much different than this year. Well, then I had no facial hair. Now, I wear a beard that might get me into the band ZZ Top. It felt good to be back at the ATC here in Harpers Ferry.

Tomorrow, I leave with plans of getting through Maryland and to Duncannon pretty quickly. Duncannon and Palmerton are two PA towns I can not wait to visit. In Duncannon, a definite day or two or three stay with Pat and Vicky of the Doyle. Hey Trail Angel Mary! Can't wait to see you. Rob says HELLO!!!! Then to Palmerton- the friendliest town on the trail.

Last night I saw the biggest black bear I have ever seen. He walked across the trail in front of me. Not really walking, a little faster, kind of like he was skuffing his feet. Once he noticed me, he sped to a gallup and cut up the hill on a diagonal line. I could hear the rocks underneath him flop under his footsteps. He moved very gracefully and covered a lot of ground fast. I decided that an attempt to photogragh him would not only be fruitless, I'd miss him trying to set up for the shot. So I watched him bounce up the hill. Towards the top, he was catapulting himself up rock ledges. Very cool. These bear are very agile and fast and beautiful. I consider myself very fortunate to have been able to observe this.

The temperatures are hot. Please send the Swedish Bikini team and the ice cold beer to: General Delivery, Attn: Totally Different Subject and friends, Appalachian Trail, GA to ME, 21740

More later. Good to be travelling with Not Yet, Mr Ease, White Crow, No Problem. Hunting Earthquake, Hungus, Rio and Hemlock. Waiting for Circuit Rider, Sherlock, Not Guilty, Scholar...etc.

Happy Trails and Love,Totally Different Subject.

From June 12

2007-06-16T08:42:00.000-04:00

TDS provided this update on June 12.

Hello from Front Royale,VA, Quality Inn.

The Shenandoah National Park was everything I wanted it to be. I was able to meander through the park from June 4 to June 11. In the park along the way I saw much wildlife, met old friends, ran into new friends, walked along beautiful trail, ate great food, ate alot of food and had a Great Birthday Party with friends at Big Meadows Tap Room.

I must say that no black bears made themselves visual during the park. While I did hear them at times and saw the red of their eyes while night hiking, no bear siting. No poisonous snake sitings. But I did see a skunk, several momma turkeys with their young, nonvenomous snakes, FLYS, deer, deer, deerl birds and of course hiker trash.

The days are getting hotter and we seem to wake up every morning with the same weather forcast- highs upper 80's with a 30% chance of scattered thunderstorms. A little rain fell during this part of the hike.

The sunsets and sunrises have been amazing and I have had the fortune of seeing many.
Some of my favorite part of trail in Virginia is the trail near cliffs. Being out on a cliff gives you a chance to see out, sometimes far, get the most of a breeze and sometimes just a break from the green tunnel. The cliffs have different flora and fauna and they all seem more fragile as they are more exposed.

At Lost Mountain wayside and campground Not Yet and Train rounded the corner as I was about to hit the trail. I hiked with both these guys back in 2005. Not Yet is hiking this year and we have been hiking since the Shenandoahs. Train is at home with his new baby girl. Train found out while on the trail then that he and his wife Crystal were going to be a Mommy and Daddy. Train, elated spent the next month or so hiking North before heading back to Virginia to celebrate the new member. We hung out the following day and did some trail magic for hikers and Not Yet. Matterhorn from back away caught up and it was great to see him then and through the rest of the Shenys. Earthquake, Couch and Hungus are several days ahead and its just White Crow and I here In Front Royale thinking about getting in the swimming pool.
Next stop Harpers Ferry, WV. I look forward to visiting the folks at the ATC and then getting on up the road through historic Maryland and then through, one of my favorites, PA. Palmerton, Duncannon here I come!!! Pat and Vicky, White Crow and I are innocent, we promise.

Thanks Granite Gear, OR Products, Etowah Outfitters, LEKI. Thanks Rob, Ricky and everyone else making this dream the best.

I am really looking forward to a quick break from the AT to paddle the new 740 mile historic waterway from Old Forge, NY to Fort Kent, ME. This endeavour ought to take 35-50 days, roughly... The excitement of this challenge is overwhelming me and of course the thought of water on these hot summer VA days...

Happy Trails,

Love,
Totally Different Subject.

Waynesboro, VA

2007-06-04T11:11:00.000-04:00

Greetings Sports Fans! From Waynesboro, VA. Mile: 848.1.

The weather is warming. The humidity has at times been stiffling. The color green can be seen forever and always now. It is that time of year and we have seen some awesome thunderstorms. And yes, we have received some much needed rain in the past week.

Since Damascus, Spring really came out in full. Every day has brought new bird calls and sightings, more wildlife sightings and more experiences.

I arrived here in Waynesboro, VA Saturday evening. From Rockfish Gap (see map on right), we found a ride into town and began a break at the Quality Inn hotel. The town has a number of great resteraunts and for our first feast we hit the chinese buffet. Very good. Steak last night and some Hardees burgers in between. Town stops on the AT are great for getting the variety, the calories and nutrition I can not get from Little Debbies, Liptons noodles, granola bars, etc. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Little Debbies.

Many hikers are here resting. Hungus, Earthquake and I are heading into the Shenandoah National Park with Mala. He is going to slackpack and run some madness and mayhem. We expect White Crow and Couch to be right behind. It was good meeting Travelling Teacher, aka Star, who came up from Florida to hike the Sheny's. Nice seeing Dogs Life and everyone else.

While hiking in to Waynesboro I started the day off by hearing the rattle of a timber rattler from about 50 feet down the trail. Once we approached the sound we noticed a snake coiled, but docile. And the rattle was rattling non stop at a speed that would need to be clocked to determined. We got some great pictures and then left him. Later that morning I watched the longest black/rat snake I have seen cross the trail. He or she, was longer than I was tall. My guess is that the snake was 6.5 feet in length.

Later that day as I hiked North, I came upon a black bear who also happened to be hiking North. I'm sure if he could type he'd thank the trail maintenance clubs for building him highways. The bear heard me, turned perpendicular from the trail and headed off. I was able to get a little closer before the bear heard me and exited stage left. The bear ran faster than I could imagine, scary fast.

Lots of squirells, chipmunks, birds, snakes, bugs, flies, mice, deer....

I am not sure if I had mentioned but at Trail Days I finally caught up with White Crow. White Crow and I met in Duncannon 2005 and spent the next couple months hiking together. We hiked out of Trail Days together with Hungus, Earthquake. We had a great hike on a beautiful section. My favorite stretch in Virginia.

Lunch at Audie Murphy Memorial, overnight at Dragons Tooth (3020'). Dragons Tooth is a thrust of rock that from away appears to be a sharp tooth of perhaps a Dragon. We ran into Scarecrow there who thru-hiked in 2005. From Dragons Tooth we hiked past Johns Spring Shelter to McAfee Knob (3250') where, yes, I stopped to take in the wonderful view and a picture. The day ended at Tinker Cliffs. This is my favorite place on the trail in Virginia. The trail follows the cliffs and you hike in and around the mountain laurel. You have spectacular views of McAffees Knob from the cliffs. We cowboyed on the rocks, ate dinner and slept well. Coffee and oatmeal for breakfast with our sites on Daleville, VA.

The Blueridge Parkway awaited me and I was obliged to hike along this parkway. The trail parallels the roadway at times and often times we even cross the road. Sometimes the pullouts from the parkway have trashcans. And these are great because it helps lighten our loads.
Down to Jennings Creek (950') and then a climb up Apple Orchard Mountain(4225')left me breathless and completely soaked with sweat. But a good sweat means you are working, right? On top of Apple Orchard Mountain sits an FAA radar dome. It looks like a big soccer ball. It was nice to catch the breeze from up there.

From US60, (2065'), I had a big climb up to Bald Knob (4059') and camped several miles shy of Cold Mountain (4022'). I was then about a half day behind Earthquake, Hungus, Rio and Hemlock. So I pushed to the Priest Shelter the next day. With about 5 miles left I ran into Hungus and we went the rest of the way together. 2 miles left to the shelter (and we were planning on staying on top of the Priest) the skies opened and the rain came down hard and plentiful. Within minutes we were soaked to the bone. It felt good to be cool instead of hot. Within the hour the trail became a flowing waterway but the thunderclaps and lightning kept us moving North very quickly. At times the thunderclaps were so close I felt like I should be able to actually see it. Then the lightning came and the electricity could be felt. Hair standing on end I slopped through the trail singing Metallica's Ride The Lightning. This was as intense of a storm I have ever been apart of. We probably should have holed up somewhere off the trail on top of a thermarest...but.

The Priest Shelter (3840'), The Priest (4063') then Tye River (997') back up the Three Ridges (3970'). It was a climb all day getting up the Three Ridges but at the Tye River Rio's family left some sausauge egg cheese buiscuits and we enjoyed them with a Coke. It all helped!!!
Into Waynesboro, VA. Looking forward to the Shenys, Bears Den Hostel (Queen Diva) Harpers Ferry, WV, etc....

Thanks LEKI, OR Products, GRANITE GEAR, MARMOT. I am not issuing a buy recommendation on Montrails Hard Rocks trail runner shoes.

Thanks Rob, Ricky and everyone else who is making this a better trip.

It was great seeing everyone back at traildays! Teflon, Domino, Redneck Rye, Crash Test Dummy, Luna, Bama, Seeker, The Honeymooners, Hobo Jo and TBC, Chef Paul, Billville, Uncle Silly, THE SPOONMAN, BLUE, DIRTY EARNY, BLUE SKYS, PATCH, CLEARWATER, Lion Kingetc.

P.S. If you have not seen Lions King PCT dvd, you should. You should buy a copy or two as well. You will love it! If you are reading, send me a link to your retailers and I will post to my blog.

Happy Trails and more later!
Totally Different Subject

One-Third

2007-05-25T15:13:00.000-04:00

Greetings from Daleville, Virginia! One-third through the AT, and only 130 trail miles to Waynesboro and the Shenandoah. Hiking with White Crow, Hungus, and Earthquake

Progress has been good since leaving Trail Days. I got to see a lot of my old friends from the 2005 thru hike and newer friends from 2007. It was great to let off steam, but after being out here for 7 weeks, you get used to spending a lot of time with just you and the trail. It gets to be sensory overload, and you look forward to getting back to the woods.

Our first day back, we took it easy...hiked about 6 miles in. Next day we did 19 miles so we could have the opportunity to stay at Dragon's Tooth. Terrific sunset before it sank behind some clouds.

The wildlife is really starting to come out now. Every day there are deer, pileated woodpeckers -- plus these really big lizards. Bigger than the ones on the Pacific Crest Trail...red head with a copper body.

After leaving Dragon's Tooth, we put in another 18 miles and made it to Tinker Cliffs. We all slept right next to the cliff itself -- I've been doing a lot of cowboy camping now that the weather's warm, and you don't really roll around a lot like you do at home, so sleeping next to the cliff isn't as dangerous as it sounds, plus it made for a beautiful morning. We hiked another 11 miles to Daleville

I'm gonna try and average around 12-13 miles a day up to Waynesboro. I'll try to get into town in the morning so I can maximize the amount of time I spend lining up a canoe for the NFCT portion of the trip. I'll also send Rob and Stan some more photo CDs, so hopefully those will be on the blog soon!

Take care!

Jason aka TDS

P.S. One more thing: Rob found this really cool Google Map/AT mash up that shows every shelter on the trail -- it's clickable and you can find out a little bit about each shelter by clicking on it -- be sure to bookmark it: http://www.cs.utk.edu/~dunigan/at/googleat.php?lat=39.9&lon=-78.1&scale=6

Update

2007-05-24T10:21:00.000-04:00

TDS has been hitting the trail hard over these past few weeks. He spent every night on the trail from May 2 to May 17. Virginia is a tough state -- by the time NOBO hikers reach the state, temperatures and humidity are getting to uncomfortable levels. There is a wide variety of terrain, including a number of flatter areas. Almost 1/4 of the trail is in the state of Virginia, and it's broken many thru hikers.

Last weekend, TDS took a brief break and attended Trail Days in Damascus Virginia. He's starting to see lots of animals, including snakes (but no bears yet), and it feels more like summer now that everything is greening up. His attitude is strong, and he hopes to make some serious time through Virginia. He's at least 50 miles ahead of where he was in 2005, and he's increasing that distance every day.

As of Monday morning, he was in the process of hitching back up to Troutville to get back on the trail -- which was his approximate location on May 28, 2005.

More updates to come!

Damascus, Virginia, Part II

2007-05-02T20:27:00.000-04:00

Hello again. Two posts in one day....

Congratulations PACE on your successful surgery. I wish you a speedy recovery and look forward to see your cool scar one day. American Spirits is back in my pack as a staple. Now, if I only had a 1 lb stainless steel cig roller.

Unfortunately, the Keen Targhees I purchased in Hot Springs, NC were not the right shoe. In fact, the shoes only held together for about 100 miles. The toe plates began to delaminate and receed from the body of the shoe. Next, the glued on nobs of the sole began to come off. It is too bad this shoe does not have a one-piece molded Vibram sole. If these shoes did, they would be the best thing on the AT outside of a real hiking boot. The waterproofing works fast. The shoes are comfortable. The toe plate helps keep the pain down when bumping rocks. I won't use these shoes for anything but "urban hiking" until they goto a Vibram sole that is one piece, not little pieces glued to a bigger piece. I have gone with the Montrail- Hard Rocks.

From Damascus, I am bouncing all winter gear: gaitors, long johns, base layer shirt, one pair socks (actually they are being thrown away) and some smaller items. Before long, I will go with my summer bag and should then always be under 30 lbs. Yee haw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No bears or snakes but I am eagerly waiting. More pileated woodpeckers hopefully are waiting and some deer would be nice to see.

With respect to my attempt at thru-paddling the NFCT...My plan is to hike as far as I can get by the end of June. I am hoping this mark will at least be Delaware Water Gap, but it would be nice to have gotten through NY and NJ. From there, I will get to Old Forge, NY and begin my paddle around July 4th'ish... Many have said they would like to come paddle and I am hoping everyone will have the opportunity. I would then complete the paddle by Mid-August or so and then come back and finish my thru hike of the AT. A canoe and some gear is what I am lacking. But my team is working on that aspect as I type. As I hike North and as the time ticks away the dream of this paddle becomes more intense. The time is nearing and my level of anxiety is growing.
I hope to visit with NFCT staff in the coming weeks. And I appreciate the advise and logistical help they have provided. Please check out their website to learn more of the trail: http://www.northernforestcanoetrail.org/

Finally, I am enjoying the hike. The weather has not been too tough and the trail seems easier this time around. To meet the great people, we get to out here, daily has always seemed to restore my faith in humanity. I love the brotherhood, the camradiere, the work, the accomplishments, the challenges, the experiences and yes, at dinner time, I love some sort of Liptons noodles...We are truly blessed to be here, walking.

Thanks to Rob, Carlynn for your expertise and time spent helping. I could never thank you enough. Thanks to Mom and Dad. Thanks to Team Portland- Bricklayer, Cross Stitch, Hi Pockets, Green Bean, JO and PACE. Your care packages are helping and I love the little things like earplugs and plastic bags to put Mountain Home dinners in, etc.

Thanks LEKI! Each time I post a journal entry I could probably tell of another story where your poles saved my life or from injury. You have a life long customer. I look forward to seeing you all at Traildays!

Thanks Granite Gear! Your Nimbus Ozone is carrying my weight like a champ. A few holes and tears but the pack still rides like a charm. It may need some washing one day. haha. Keeping building great products and I look forward to seeing you at Trail Days in 2007!

Thanks Chef Paul/ Etowah Outfitters! Great, simple, functional products for the long distance hiker. I now have about 1500 miles on your alcohol stove and nearly 3500 miles on your sil nylon stuff sack/ backpack. See you at Trail Days.

Take care, Happy Trails and Best wishes,Love,Totally Different Subject, TDS
Totally Different Subject

Damascus, Virginia -- Part I

2007-05-02T19:54:00.000-04:00

Greetings Hiking fans and how are you today?

From Damascus, VA, Mile: 459.5.

Thanks for all the guestbook entries! It is so nice to hear from so many folks. And yes, I will try to be more consistent with posting journal entries.

The weather is warming and reminding me that Summer is not too far off. However, the mornings and evenings are cool and those breezes come at the most opportune time. With the warming weather the green color is showing through Winter's litter. The birds are out and provide fantastic shows during a trailside break. I have seen a pileated woodpecker already and these are my second favorite trail birds. My favorite is the loon.

While walking along the trail, up a ridgeline, I noticed leaves covering the ground. Not a big deal, right? Because there are leaves everywhere. Well, these leaves were alive with noise. Noise that sounded like you were broadcasting fertilizer pellets atop these leaves. What in the world could this noise be I wondered? I sure could not see what was making the noise...until I bent down and noticed that the noise was being made by new grasshoppers jumping around as they heard me walk by.

My last post was from Erwin, TN. Now, live from Damascus, VA I update the blog. As you may already know, leaving Erwin, TN is always hard to do. As difficult as it is to pull ones self from Ms. Janet's takes some discipline. Ms. Janet is doing great and it was a treat to see her again. Always a great time and a great experience had in Erwin.

SPOONMAN, a great friend, who I hiked with in 2005 called on April 20 to let me know he was coming up to visit. He drove up from Spartenburg, SC and we had a ball catching up. Spoon got his pack ready and we left for the trail. We hiked and talked for an hour or so and then chose an ideal campsite for the night. It was great catching up with Spoonman and to hear how things were in his life. I hope to see Spoonman again at TrailDays.

The following day got a late start. It was a bit sad to see Spoonman have to hike back the opposite direction. And I could tell he was saddened to have to go back. The climb up lead me atop Unaka Mountain. What a special place it is here. The top of the mountain was covered up with Hemlocks. Once inside the canopy, I noticed how much darker it was than just a few minutes before. Complete silence was what I heard. Sitting down gave me a chance to realize how insignificant I am in relation to these woods.

Before I arrived just shy of Unaka Mountain the day before, I crested a bald named- Beauty Spot. And very appropriately named. There were a few hikers that stayed. A meteor shower occured that evening and although I watched the skies from my sleeping bag I could not tell you that I was seeing a meteor shower but the stars were crystal clear as the sky.

You know, the great thing about hiking this trail over and over is the opportunities you get to see everything in any kind of weather. For instance, in 2005 when I went up and over Roan Mountain the weather was cold, rainy and windy. I remember seeing BAMA and NEMO (AT 04, PCT 06) up there doing trail magic. I was soaked, couldn't see anything, no views, and did not really even want to stop and visit. This time around, the weather was beautiful! I could see so much of what I missed the first time. Heck, I even made the side trip to the shelter, which is very, very nice. IT was a little chilly up there but comfortable.

I bypassed Overmountain Shelter this time but the hike up Round Bald and Jane Bald provided wonderful 360 panoramic views. We are still in the Roan Highlands area and the balds and the grass and straight uphill trails are breathtaking. I found myself stopping to snap photos often. Again, the scenery from Hump and Little Hump Mountains are difficult to define.

HUNGUS, EARTHQUAKE and I have been hiking together for the last couple of weeks. Great guys...even if they are from Jersey. Hahaha. Just kidding as I love New Jersey. Hungus had arranged a ride from US321/ Hampton, TN back to Hot Springs, NC for Trail Fest. Of course, the days leading up to the hitch I was planning on heading North but when BOBBY and RAMBLER arrived with a Suburban full of food, well, I headed back with the gang to Trail Fest.

Trailfest was great! Thanks Jack Colton, Hot Springs and everyone else who made it a great time. It was nice to see DOMINO, NOONIN, SEEKER, SUNSHINE, BIRDY/ MUSCRAT (The Honeymooners) from 2005. I never actually got to meet The Honeymooners so it was such a treat to meet and get to visit with them. Oh yea, I got to meet some great 2007 Thru hikers that are now behind. Great seeing NICOLE and CERTAIN. Nicole, I hope you are feeling better. PERSISTANT, I love your trail name!

Back on the trail, and just one zero day. Note, I have only taken 4 thus far which is less than I had taken, at the same time, back in 2005. The hike around Watauga Lake ensued. The lake had filled and the color of the water seemed almost emerald like.

A reroute from TN91, wound us up the trail through an old cattle farm. The trail was cut through fields of grass and we hiked past old barns, chicken houses and feed boxes. HUNGUS, EARTHQUAKE and I breaked near the corral and thought that we had enough water to stay here over night. On to the next water source...

19.2 miles into Damascus, VA. Began at 6:03am and I was able to break camp in 20 minutes, which is a record. The first thing I ate was a big chefs salad smothered in buttermilk ranch dressing, several pieces of pizza (compliments of Spaghetti-Oh no AT 06) and several Pepsi's. When do we get back to Coca Cola country?

Why do my socks smell like amonia? If you have an idea, please respond.

End of Part I.

I hope that everyone is fine.

Happy Trails, TDS

Totally Different Subject

Pictures

2007-04-25T20:35:00.000-04:00

TDS has provided some photos from the hike so far. More to come soon...

The front porch.

The master bedroom.

The back yard.

The kitchen.

The office.

Totally Different Subject, Springer Mountain; March 18, 2007

2007-04-23T12:38:00.000-04:00

Greetings Hiking Fans! And how are you today? From Erwin, TN. Ms Janets Bunk and Breakfast. Mile: 338.7.

What a great stretch of trail from Hot Springs, NC to Erwin, TN. and if memory serves me, then the trail only gets more beautiful.

It is so nice to hear from everyone! Thank you for taking the time to drop a note. Your notes remind me of great times, great experiences and great people. I hope to see you all one day, down the trail.

Thank you TEAM PORTLAND- Green Bean, Hi Pockets, Cross Stitch, Pace and Bricklayer!

Thank you TEAM MINNESOTA- Rob, Carlynn, Gabe and Sam.

Leaving Hot Springs,NC is always a hard thing to do. But one has to hike North. I was heading towards Mt. Rich Firetower, approximately 9 miles North, hoping that the firetower would be open so that we might camp in the observation deck. No such luck. The rain had picked up and I needed to get my tent pitched. So I found an area behind the firetower and then began the evening routine of making shelter, drying out, eating and ultimately sleep.

The next morning I felt wet and the rain had not let up. Basically, everything I had was wet. How cool would it be for the sun to appear so that I could dry gear before departing I thought? So I stayed in the sleeping bag hoping for the sun. By 10am, I realized that the sun coming out was just a dream. So, wet I headed North. The rain continued.

Later that afternoon I stopped to visit with FAL and HERCULES. We visited and they served food for several hours. As we talked the rain turned to snow. On a full stomach and some partially dried clothes I headed up the hill. The snow began to stick and freeze to my clothes and as wet as I was, it was difficult keeping warm despite hiking uphill.

Just three miles shy of the shelter I walked to Hemlock Hollow Farm, from Log Cabin Road.

Boy was I happy to find this place and that there was room for a wet and cold hiker. What a great place! They had everything a hiker could need. Plus, great coffee and all sorts of resupply food. We shared coffee and stories the next morning before I headed off.

The weather was nice and warmer the next morning. I said goodbye and started hiking towards Erwin, TN.

Gandalf and I hiked the remaining several days into Erwin, TN. The weather was much better and the views were excellent. The trail condition is great and we only see blowdown occasionally.
More and more wildlife can be seen as of late. Things are starting to green up. I have been having fun, finding ramps and then using them in my cooking. Ramps are like onion bulbs with a garlic-like taste. I use the greens as well.

The terrain is always changing but the one constant- there are always Ups and Downs. I am loving hiking over the balds. Walking along the trail over the balds gives you a chance for marvelous views. Often providing 360 degree views.

It is so beautiful. Often times, I enjoy just stopping to take in a view, listening to the woods or watching a bird.

No bear sightings yet. No venomous snakes.

Virginia here I come!

My friend White Crow is ahead. Scholar is here in Erwin. Not Guilty is abit behind. Not Yet is ahead. Spoonman is on his way up from South Carolina for a visit. We are heading in a mile or so.

I am meeting all sorts of great people and getting to spend time with hikers I met in 2005.

Thanks Green Bean, Robko, Stan, Hi Pockets, Cross Stitch, Bricklayer, Pace. Speedy recovery to Pace and Mike back in Portland, OR.

Totally Different Subject

Update: Erwin, TN and Miss Janet's House

2007-04-19T16:00:00.000-04:00

TDS has just arrived at the legendary Miss Janet's House in Erwin, TN. He'll be posting soon.

Miss Janet's is at mile 330, which is approximately one-sixth of the total length of the trail. Here is an image of the southern tier of the trail showing TDS's progress to date.

Out of the Smokies

2007-04-14T12:48:00.000-04:00

Update...highlights from Fontana Dam to Hot Springs, NC:

Day 1: From Fontana Dam, NC I hiked 5.9 miles to The Birches Campground. I was terribly needing a nap. I took one but awoke three hours later. Since dinner time was only minutes away I decided that here would be tonight's resting place. With great sleeps I began a very, very cold welcoming morning in the Smokies. Swiftly moving up the trail I really could feel that yes, I had arrived one more time to this great place. No snow, sunny skies and beautifully maintained trails I took it all in. If you have hiked here you know what I mean and if you have not, you should.

Up Shuckstack mountain was a tough climb but worth it and my muscles really responded to the challenge of a 2000 +ft climb. Lunch at Mollies Ridge Shelter. Cold but worth the stop. Tonight I stayed at Spence Field Shelter. My first in the Smokies. I had hoped my last due to non sleep created by snorers. We had a fire, it kept the shelter warm and despite the nights chill I slept comfortably.

Day 2: Spence Shelter to Double Springs Gap Shelter. To get things started off this chilly morning I got to climb ol' Rocky Top. Great views, great trail and a new song to sing. Up Siler's Bald the days hike seemed like a steady climb with an occasional reprieve. This night, determined to get sleep, announced my tenting to the crew in the shelter. It seemed that the shelter might fill that night making my tenting nearby "official".

The snow began shortly after I pitched the tent. Time to fix dinner and the snow just seemed nice as it fell. By the time I had eaten and sort of cleaned the nights crockery it was time for bed. I bid my farewells and slipped out for a warms night sleep. It was warm in there that night. I never felt uncomfortable. Of course, you always kind of sweat your bag getting wet in the night. Great night's sleep.

Day 3: Awoke to cold, chilly winds making it through my tent. Feet were starting to get cold and frost was noticeable all over the underneath of my rainfly. I could see that a snow drift had covered up a part of both rain flaps. Peering out from my tent at the snow that was falling and the snow that had been left building on the ground was as surprising as exhilarating. This is winter camping, eh? 5500' elev., temps in upper teens and you're hiking along a ridgeline with snow and wind blowing in your face--it was fun. Hiked into Newfound Gap and hitched into Gatlinburg with Skeeter Feeder a 2005 alum. Gatlinburg was Gatlinburg. More to follow...

Today (April 14), I'm officially out of the Smokies. We stayed on Mt. Cammerer. A trail .06 miles off the AT lead me up a ridge line, through a canopy of rhodies, scrambling up rocks to the top. At the top a tall simple but timely structure stood. The firetower had an observation deck that looked inviting. But was it open, could I get in to take a 360 degree look out over what I had just hiked and what lay ahead? I scrambled up some rocks and reached the firetower. Up the stairs and YES the door is opened. An octagon shaped observation tower made home to several hikers that night. It was a nice and cool night with a bright red sunset. We went to sleep warmer than we had the previous weeks sleeps.

It must have been around midnight when the wind started up. It started and did not let up until morning. We must have received a bit of rain, but the wind picked up at a ferocious pace through the night. Finally, a sleepless night due to something other than the horrible, unpaced, erratic snores of The Smokies shelters. A beautiful sunset and windy morning awaited the shelter gang. A slow start, but out by 10am got us to Standing Bear Farm hostel before 1pm.

The day before...April 10, 2007. Leaving the warmth of Tri Corner Knob shelter was tough today despite warmer than temperatures of late. A shorter hike was in store for today so an early start was not urgent. And since this days hike was so breathtaking up Mt Guyot down and back up to Deer Creek Gap I sure loved the time to stop. There was still snow on the ground and the hiking cold. I had to keep moving to stay warm. However, the sun would come out, I'd be hiking uphill and then overheating would begin. It was a tough battle maintaining body temp. Never wanting to get too wet with sweat, given the temperatures and wind, I would slow during climbs and speed down hill, constantly removing and replacing hats, gloves, rain pants and rain jacket. But what a beautiful stretch and then I got off on the Mt Cammerer side trail up to the fire tower. A nice finishing stretch that featured a slow uphill approach along a ridgeline. The views in all directions, seeing everything, forever, reminded me how fortunate I am for the experiences discovered on THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL.

More updates soon -- I just sent Rob a disk full of photos, so hopefully, I'll have some online for you really soon.

Thanks again to Leki. Your poles are keeping me alive and hiking!

Granite Gear. I cannot say enough about how well your Nimbus Ozone has worked for me here on the AT and on the PCT.

Chef Paul, of Etowah Outfitters/ Gear, again, you are topping the list of items in my pack. Keep up the great work!

Update

2007-04-09T07:41:00.000-04:00

The Great Smokies received over 10 inches of snow in a spring storm. TDS is holed up in Gatlinburg, TN until it's safe to get back up on the trail. Expect a posting soon.

Photo courtesy of the City of Gatlinburg

Tellico Gap, part II

2007-04-02T07:10:00.000-04:00

Greetings Friends, Family and Hiker Fans.... http: totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com ((THANKS ROB and CARLYNN GORE!!!))

I hope you are well. It is raining (finally!) here in Franklin, NC. For the trail- I am at Tellico Gap, NC which is about 20 miles North of Franklin.

Not Guilty and I hiked together on and off in 2005. He is out here hiking and I knew that there was a chance I would eventually catch him. As I hiked North, I continued to see his Shelter Register Postings and each day the distance between us was narrowing. Finally, just a few miles South of Winding Stair Gap, we met at Rock Gap Shelter. We had a nice afternoon visiting. That night we stayed in the shelter...but nobody slept. Can we say SNORING and TOSSING/TURNING. So we were all glad to be in Franklin where good sleeps were waiting.

Here I ran into Scholar. She is out here hiking again and yes, we met on the AT in 2005. We had a nice time catching up! Many other familiar faces and friends in attendance for Ron Havens Hikers Fools Day party. We listened to a blue grass band sing and play Merle Haggard, George Jones, Waylon, Bob Wills,...We had barbeque and beer and tons of laughs. Thanks Ron! What a great party.

I have not felt a drop of rain while hiking this year. But that is about to change....like today and tomorrow. We have watched a bit about the storms in the Midwest and I would love to have some thunderstorms on the trail. It has been warm and there were a couple days over 90.

No bears, no deer, no eagle sightings. Hikers have seen them though.

Physically, I feel great and fortunate.

The wildflowers are starting to rise from the leaves. And perhaps the rain we have had in the last several days is enough to start bringing out the color.

I am hoping to be heading into the Great Smokies, TN Tuesday or maybe Wednesday. Last year Green Bean and I hiked through the Smokies and they were gorgeous and dry, with no snow. I hope to have another great experience in those mountains.

Best of luck to all that are hiking this year. We truly have the greatest job. Thanks for everyones help and I think of you all often.

Happy Trails, Jason Bivin aka Totally Different Subject (TDS)

Tellico Gap

2007-04-01T11:51:00.000-04:00

Tellico Gap, NC. approx 126 miles. On the trail now for 14 days. Weather has been beautiful and warm. Some rain of lately. Attended the Hikers Fool Day party in Franklin at Ron Havens hotel. Many great people in attendance, blue grass music, bbq, free food and shuttles.

No animal sightings to report....well, there seems to be a pack of dogs running together around the Wayah Bald area. Hikers have photographed what might have been thought to be wolves. We drove past 3 of them and if you asked me, well, I thought they were dogs...it was the dog collar that tipped me off.

Physically feeling very well.

Meeting new people and enjoying the hike.

Just a few miles from the Nantahala Outdoor Center near Wesser, NC. Fontana Dam by Tues and then up and up through the Smokies. I look forward to the miles ahead.

The next time I will stop in town will be Hot Springs, NC. Maybe a week or more. Then a stop in Erwin, TN at Ms Janets place before heading into Virginia.

Update

2007-03-29T12:09:00.000-04:00

It's been confirmed that TDS has made it to Winding Stair Gap and is now in Franklin, North Carolina. His most recent trail location was approximately:

35°7'12"N , 83°32'38"W

If you're interested in Geology, here's some interesting info about the Winding Stair Gap:

http://www.geo.ua.edu/fieldtrips/windingst.html

Mile 28-32: Blood Mountain and Walasi-Yi

2007-03-21T18:56:00.000-04:00

Hey it's TDS! At Neel's Gap, Georgia at the historic Wallasi-Yi to visit with Winton and staff to resupply before heading further north. Beautiful day atop Blood Mountain - only a slight breeze in contrast to what it usually is: cold. Weather's been unseasonably warm, but hey it's good to sweat.

Enjoying seeing the mountains out here again, trail's in great shape -- trail clubs have done a great job!

Email access is currently limited at best...expect technology to improve as I head further north along the trail. Looking forward to seeing all the great fixtures of the AT! I'll be posting photos once I get reliable and regular internet/email connection.

It's cool because now I know things like how far I can really go without needing water...how long it takes to get from point A to point B...all these little things that take time to figure out when you first set out. No more uneasy feelings of the unknown. I feel less inclined to sit around and take it easy. It's like a job, but I certainly enjoy it.

Take care,
TDS

P.S. Here's a cool topo of the above Google Maps image.

Pack weight: 35 lbs
Food: ramen, instant mashed potatoes, gravy, peanut butter, mac & cheese, granola, powdered milk, energy bars, cheese, and water

Update

2007-03-19T16:35:00.000-04:00

Totally Different Subject's approximate location, somewhere between GA HWY 60 and US 19.

Map of the Appalachian Trail in Georgia: http://www.n-georgia.com/appalach.htm

First Post: Intentions

2007-03-18T20:55:00.000-04:00

Hello all, and welcome to my blog!

While I love living in Portland, I am excited to notify you of my intent to be the first person to thru hike the Appalachian Trail AND thru paddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail in one season.

You all know about the AT but did you know that last Spring the NFCT was completed? This water trail runs from Old Forge, NY to Fort Kent, ME. It should be a blast. And I am again, very fortunate to attempt this goal.

My hope is that by the time you are reading this, I will have already left Springer Mountain, GA, which is the beginning of the AT. My hope is to complete the AT leg in 5 months or fewer which should not be a problem if I stay out of the vortex, the towns, the Doyle (sorry Pat and Vicky- I love you all!), etc...

Since you're here, you've found my blog -- http://totallydifferentsubject.blogspot.com. I hope to be posting frequent updates about my progress toward this goal, as well as some photos and possibly video.

Take care and I hope to hear from you all soon.

p.s. I am hoping to win the support of an outfitter, specifically for the paddle. I am currently planning a solo but could do the paddle in a shorter timespan with a partner. Please email back with ideas, suggestions, comments, feedback, etc...

Best of luck to all of you, and Happy Trails!